Thanks guys.
Justin, they are the rears, s2
Jake, gonna need some insider knowledge to install the plx boost gauge. Any words of wisdom?
Well got the easy part out of the way. Maf replaced. In correct flow orientation.
Noticed the last 3 numbers on new part were 067. Original part removed was 069.
Well, same shit. Maf code for implausible signal. Wtf!?
Every time I cruise at freeway speeds about 25-30 miles in, get that error along with abs/esp faults. New maf = same problem. Not sure what to “fix” now. Frustrating…
Upon return home and searching for simple ideas, wiring was suggested.
Hmmm, wonder if this splice job is culprit? I can only assume the harness needed to lengthened due to slight relocation of MAF?
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160402/8830ec6f7ad44b05464f1f51440866df.jpg
Got my fbsw from poland. Impressed with lukasz work, communication and end result. About a month from order to receiving.
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Small update on MAF wiring…resistance was fairly high across all wires, 1+ ohm on all of them. Hoping a proper solder and heat shrink connection will be the fix.
The wheel looks different then i would have thought. one month for a custom wheel isnt bad.
On the maf wires that makes really good sense great job looking over the voltages and checking that out.
Different how? I like it is simple and understated. I wish I had gone with perforated leather at the 3 and 9 oclock positions. But I am happy with the final product.
Well, so far so good. Proper splice work seems to have done the job. Took car on same stretch of freeway under same driving conditions (cruising) that would trip maf, abs, esp codes. Not a one.
Will keep on monitoring but I am not surprised splicing the maf harness properly fixed the issue. Sure hope this is end of nitpicky surprises for a while.
Bout to burn this car to the ground. Same fucking maf code for implausible signal popped up and “new” code for iat sensor g42. Wtf! My last idea for this maf headache is swapping in the original maf. Hoping against hope that the p/n is the issue. I am at a loss here…
It looks more padded then I thought. The material is a swade like more than leather or is that just from how I see the picture. Im not saying its bad. Just saying it looks slightly different then some other wheels.
As for the MAF try putting back in the other maf but if you found some issues in the wires that can explain some of the issues. Also the last part of the part number being different that too can cause some issues. The fact that you got a new code would say to me that there is something new that is going on. And that can be linked right back to the maf or the wire change
Did all that. Original maf is back in and same results. Minus the g42 IAT sensor code. I have to think this was, is and still is a wiring issue. But who knows.
Next step? New pigtail to ecu harness? I really just want this resolved. Sucks getting kicked into limp mode every 50 miles on the highway. I still havent swapped in new b2s2 o2 sensor. Anyway this is related. My guess is no. Thing is, I am not seeing any drastic gas mileage change.
Wheel is more padded and wrapped in alcantara.
A huge help would be a maf to ecu wiring diagram for the 4.2. I have searched and searched with no luck. Having the pigtail be all yellow makes it tough to trace wires. Need to know the correct maf to ecu pinout to be sure it is wired up correctly.
Here you go.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/20160411_231733_zps8miwpokm.jpg
That is from the Bentley Publishers C5 Service manual for engine management, 4.2 liter, engine code BAS (allroad Quattro 2003).
MAF pin 1 - yellow wire - goes to pin 26 of the ECU
MAF pin 3 - black wire with green tracer - goes to pin 27 of the ECU
MAF pin 4 - blue wire with green tracer - goes to pin 53 of the ECU
MAF pin 5 - green wire - goes to pin 29 of the ECU
MAF pin 2 - green wire with yellow tracer - goes to D22 / connector over fuse 234 in wiring harness front right. It would seem that that D22 connector is powering a lot of things because it goes to a bunch of stuff. On a different diagram that D22 lines goes to a T10n/8 connector. T10n is an orange 10 pin connector in the plenum chamber probably under the ECU. So check resistance from the MAF pin 2 to pin 8 of that orange connector inside the plenum chamber.
If you cut the MAF harness sheathing open a bit past where the wires are soldered together then you should see the factory wire colors.
Hope that helps!
Thank you so much, Jimmy! I truly appreciate your help and getting me this info.
Yes jimmy is great.
Happy let us know what you find. Is this something you can log and see eactly what the MAF is doing that is causing the ECU to reconize a fault.
I would think so. I did a pull, I will grab the simple log of channel 2. Iirc, maf max was 244 g/s at ~6800 rpm.
Need to look at the maf log under part throttle cruising.
One weird thing about my wiring on ecu side was the presence of a tan wire. I dont see tan anywhere in the shop diagram?
Later on I will check my logs to compare the max MAF reading.
By the way, I was wrong about the MAF pin 1 wire color. It is gr for grey. I had put yellow. Being tired and looking at wiring diagrams is not a good mix.
There is a brown wire for G108 bank 2 sensor 1 oxygen sensor in the picture that I posted. It is T6av/1 so pin 1 of the oxygen sensor connector and then pin 13 of the ECU.
No problem and thank you! Appreciate the follow-up on wiring color. Doesn’t help I am color blind. Lol!
No problem and thank you! Appreciate the follow-up on wiring color. Doesn’t help I am color blind. Lol!
Quite the list of issues…rear sway bar end links are shit. Not sure how or why this happened but noticed clunking and popping when making turns into parking lot entries after getting the car back. Also some even cadence vibrations no matter what suspension level I was running (low, stock, raised, etc…) And poor rear tire wear. So I go to researching and read about how the allroad hotchkis rear sway blocks the rear toe aspherical toe adjustor. Ok, thats lame, but nothing compared to the mess I found.
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Bottom links are popped off the bushings and the bar is interfering with the rear axles. They have worn away material from both the sway bar and axle. I’d say the bar is done for all intents and safety purposes and who knows about the axles?
UPDATE
The bar was incorrectly istalled and positioned on the outside of the end links rather than inboard. Below is a correctly installed and positioned bar. Lol!
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160423/e0da0d49420674efe1d0554437151a0c.jpg
Nice easy fix.
Im sure you noticed but the axels should be fine. Looks like other then the work to put in the bar correctly there was no harm done.
I always get scared on those plastic wishbones that the sway bar connects to. On my 3.0 I put on a RS4 sway bar and they broke under a hard corner. Every since then I have a hate for them
Well, not 100% sure my axles are fine and the sway bar certainly is not fine because the metal at the bolt hole where bar connects has been worn away like a machine shop lathe much like some of the axle as you can see in the first pic right behind the outer boot. Not to mention the end links are obviously destroyed. Minor details. Lol
Maybe time for 034 spherical end links? Oem probably fine when the bar isn’t placing undo stress from being installed wrong.
From what I can see other than boot damage they axels look ok. That part getting scraped like that dosent look bad from the picture. In person it might be a much different story
The rear axels are solid from what I remember so they shouldnt have been effected very much over all
