EASY NOW… LOL once you get the little bugs out these cars are solid. Did you ever get the injectors worked out
LOL 
there are these little metal rotation tabs on the injectors that prevent the injector-puller tool from sliding in all the way. i’m guessing those tabs can be taking out, but they are stuck in there pretty good. i tried grabbing them with pliers and a dental pick with no luck. i’m sure i just need the right tool.
If you ply back the tabs you can get the injector out easier… but eaiser is a hard term to really get to.
Most people take the injectors out with the sleeves on them. Keep hitting them with penetration oil over and over. Then work them around back and forth and working to rotate them. This will help them come out better. Pulling on them with plyers is a good way to break them. So be careful .
Got all my injectors out - was a cinch once I understood the quirks of working the injector removal tool. The only burning question I have right now is - what’s the best way to clean the injector port without dropping junk into the cylinder? The bentley manual says to use a nylon brush, which will gently remove debris, but also gives it a good chance of just knocking loose and falling down in.
If this is the first time you’re removing the injectors, chances are it might be pretty ugly down there. Have a shop vac handy to minimize the chance of dirt/debris falling in the cylinder (as you’ll see later).
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Once those metal tabs on the injectors are pushed out of the way, you can slide part 1 (collar tool) of the injector removal tool in. It’s honestly a PITA, as the injectors are seated pretty far down. If you can get the collar tool to where the rib/stiffener is, you’re in good shape I’d say (not a promise/guarantee/warranty in any way). If you’re paranoid about breaking the plastic part of the injector, my advice would be to use the tool to pull the injector out just a little bit, then reseat the collar tool all the way in. This will probably give the most consistent results.
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Removal tool seated on top of collar (12mm bolt head) and ready to pull. Try to get as much bearing area as possible on the removal tool, just so the load is distributed uniformly and minimizes bending on the injector and its tabs.
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Use the wrench to tighten the removal bolt. Eventually you will feel the injector pull out and turning the wrench won’t require any significant torque. At this point, remove the injector tool without pulling the injector out of its port. This is where I like to take a shop vac and vacuum anything in the area just to make sure I’m reducing the chance of something dropping in.
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If you’re lucky, your injector port will have been well sealed and clean (I batted 2/10). If not, it might get pretty ugly (8/10). Not hard to figure out which one is which 
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Beyond that, it’s just rinse and repeat. Your engine bay might look like this afterwards:
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All 10 injectors in various states of cleanliness (going to do a JHM swap):
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Great idea on the swap. How did the injectors turn out are all of them in good condition after the pull.
What is the tool you used to pull them out. Are you happy with it…what exactly was it.
I’m guessing the injectors are the original ones, so they’re all relatively dirty (except maybe 2-3). I’m curious as to what JHM says when I send in my injectors as cores. Hoping to get the full core return, but I have no idea what a 10-year old injector should look like ???
As far as the tool - the kit is VW/Audi T10133C. I got an OEM-equivalent kit from freedom racing (http://www.freedomracing.com/t10133-fuel-injector-puller-remover-set-alt.html). ECS also carries them, but the OEM-brand kit is about $250, while off-brand ones are $90ish.
The kit is designed for multiple injector types. Basically it’s just a screw and sleeve setup that pulls the injector out. Pretty straightforward to use!
bumping this as i’m finally going to do my carbon clean over christmas now that i have time off. yeah, i’m slow :-[ :-[
so, my car has been sitting a while, and i have concern that the cylinders won’t be well oiled, even though there will still be a thin coat on the piston rings and all. i was thinking of squirting some marvel mystery oil down the walls just to make sure there’s some lubrication available. thoughts?
also, does the car need to be on all fours to rotate the engine using the nut on the alternator, or does park disconnect the engine and the transmission? i only have the front 2 wheels off the ground.
thanks in advance!
The oil in the cylinder isn’t really nessessary as the rings back off over time. You can as a good measure and to do a easy motor turn over off the alt bolt your going to want to pull the spark plugs. But you don’t have to. As for spinning the motor over. You just have to make sure the car is in N not P and you can have the wheels on or off the ground. it won’t matter.
when i accidentally pulled the condenser lines to the AC, i tore the o-ring on the line and have had the damndest time finding the P/N. just found it, so here it is in case anyone needs it in the future:
upper line (701):
to condenser: 4E0-260-749-B (13.7 x 2.5)
to compressor: 4E0-260-749-A (11 x 2.5)
lower line (710):
to condenser: 4E0-260-749-A (11 x 2.5)
to tube 709: 8E0-260-749 (10.8 x 1.82)
also, the lower coolant pipe plug is an M10-1.0 x 10mm with the following P/N: N91119401.
i completely stripped mine when i was trying to drain the coolant.
progress is slow, but happening at least!
? Where is the build thread?? haha!
This thread should be called “watch me perform normal maintenance on my car”
lol that’s the blessing and curse of these cars ;D
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update:
carbon cleaning and fuel injectors went in - walnut shells are definitely the way to go. i used the fine shells from harbor freight.
reassembled the rest of the car, fired it up last night, and everything sounded great…and then this morning happened.
first - i have an electrical connector without a home. it’s off the oil pan on the passenger’s side. where does it go?
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and to top things off, i started the car up again and got some very unfriendly noises. turned off shortly thereafter. my brother is helping me go through the various codes i pulled from OBD11 (no VCDS here, RIP)
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Watch “S6 unhappy startup” on AudiRevolution.net
I would say that connector is for your after run coolant pump
so after talking to a mechanic friend and thinking about what changed between saturday night and sunday afternoon, i think i need to bleed the PS reservoir - i added in some fluid, and had pulled the PS cooling lines to get the radiator out of the way, so there’s probably a good amount of air floating around in the system.
also figured out after taking a break that that connector by the oil pan goes up to the alternator (the wiring isn’t very long so the connector can’t reach too far).
lastly, i really dig the red paint on the intake manifold. can’t remember who did it first, but kudos to you. i got my paint at a local oreilly’s, and it’s more of a cherry red than a bright bright red. either color really pops out and adds a nice cosmetic touch to the engine bay.
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life was good until one of my coolant hoses popped off while driving. tow to the shop it was. got the hoses fixed, pressure tested the system, and another hose popped off. o-rings on the radiator were then replaced - apparently the radiator is on its way out and i should probably get a new one in the near future. so all the coolant hoses are back on, everything is looking good, pressure tested again, and the damn water pump started leaking (which i replaced).
aside from perhaps getting a bad water pump (always possible), it is also possible to overtighten the housing on install, which causes it to warp and leak. either way, i am a sad panda right now. so close, yet so far away :’( ??? ??? ???
Sorry about the car troubles! After replacing my suspension maybe i’ll pay some of these items a visit as I’m approaching 100K miles. Also, loving the painted manifold! I have a guy powder coating my new rims, so that may be a possibility when I order a new IM for the next carbon clean @ 115K miles!
oh man a powder coated manifold would be sharp!
ripped everything apart this weekend. sadly my aftermarket radiator did not fit properly, so i’m just ordering an oem one. when in doubt, order OEM. sure it costs more, but you’ll save time and hassle of getting the wrong part.
so in removing the radiator, there are two retaining pins at the top of the radiator, one on each side
]
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the bentley manual says to kind of pry from the top and pull out. that’s bs. what you actually need to do is rotate the pin so the locking tab is accessible. just push that tab in and the pin can be lifted up and pulled right out with complete ease. here’s a picture of the pin and the side of the locking tab.
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on the plus side, my water pump isn’t actually leaking - it looks like it’s the thermostat. much easier fix, but i also didn’t order a thermostat. ah well.
finally, when i was driving home the other day, i got a misfire on cylinder 5 and no signal from the fuel injector. pulled the IM and sure enough, the locking tab on the fuel injector connector failed, allowing the connector to back off with engine vibration. so now i have new connectors and connector tools on order. hopefully not too bad a fix, though i will have to pull the entire fuel rail (hopefully the injectors will stay in so i can do just #5).
the part number for the electrical connector is 4 D0 971 992 (rev A i presume).
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on the bright side, what took me months of work on and off before now took me a weekend to get to the same spot 8)
just a quick bit of info for anyone encountering this in the future - the Code A/B/C on that connector indicates different sub-part numbers. I picked up “Code B” connectors which have a different slot pattern than “Code A” and therefore don’t fit. so if you need new connectors, make sure both the major part number (4D0971992) and the “code” are an exact match.
update:
fixed the electrical connector (no more misfires), installed the new radiator and thermostat, and the car fired right up. everything was good, until i heard what sounds like a metallic rubbing coming from the back area of the engine, and this definitely seems like a new sound (not something i noticed on previous startups). it’s kind of obvious on engine startup, and very obvious on engine shutdown.
things that changed from last time:
- used 65mm bolts on IM (JHM-supplied bolts are 60mm) and added lock washers to try and make up for some of the extra length. torqued to 9 Nm instead of the 9Nm+90deg as indicated in bentley manual.
- added gold foil to underside of intake manifold for heat shielding (for whatever it’s worth).
had more coolant leaks, but they went away. maybe an air bubble in the system after the thermostat opened up? took the car to my local audi specialist (non-dealer) for a pressure test and all was good. also got a new battery since mine died while it was sitting ;D
now, i don’t have working AC. not sure if it’s a refrigerant leak (will find out on next drive if low pressure codes come back), bad sensor (has happened on other audis), or if my compressor is shot. thankfully it doesn’t appear that a compressor change needs an engine pull - on the RS6 it is needed.
in the meantime, since the car is driveable - just not pleasantly so with texas summer on its way - i’m going to get my exhaust installed next week!