Hidden Horsepower; Stock Intake + Silencer

B6 A4
#41

I would take lots of pics except my camera is out of commission.

I just did the same as zingo had done on his airbox. See Zingo’s 1st post for pics (4th pic down). First, roughed the contact surfaces with sand paper. Then, I used some Loctite epoxy (because this particular epoxy is heat resistant up to 300 F apparently…) and attached a pre-cut a piece of “hard” plastic I had around the house to cover the hole on the airbox which supplies air to the RF wheel well.

According to Shawn Hornet and Zingo, covering this hole gained their cars some speed by virtue of a more direct air flow. Shawn Hornet also posted some tech data/schematic right after zingo’s 1st post.

#42

Building on the Zingo Mod

Just made a couple subtle changes that won’t hurt the flow at all. Hopefully increase the flow a little better

First, descreened the MAF. Took my dremel and cutting blade and cut out the inside screen. Then grinder down all the rough edges. Make sure to take the sensor out or cover it up very well. There will be a lot of debris.

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/58226bff.jpg

After that, took a look at the accordion piece and decided to mess with that. I took my old CAI cheap tube that was basically just scrap laying around. As Shawn stated it might not show much better flow but it wont hurt. I wrapped the chrome tube in some CF wrap I had laying around from my side skirts.

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/8d4c8dfc.jpg

And full bay

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g459/Nick_Mozingo/b50f4f1c.jpg

Together they might not be much, but as a full system each piece will help with flow.

Any questions let me know, happy modding

#43

Just a question which may not have been thought about. Now that the accordian has been replaced with a solid tube, what is now doing the flexing job of the accordian ?

The airbox is bolted to the body unlike the pod filter and the engine actually moves quite a bit when under load (and even more if you have a broken mount!)

Since there is a MAF if you get a break in the intake the computer will get a misreading of the amount of flow and you’ll either stall or start over revving or even both.

I like the idea of smoothing the airflow, but there has to be some flex in there somewhere.

Cheers,
Adam.

#44

second picture won’t load

#45

Good point, from my understanding the 3.0 has a wideband o2 sensor that will still pick up the uncorrected air.

As far as thE flexing goes, the rubber adapters that connect the tube to the throttle body tube and the MAF are pretty flexible. Not as much as the accordian but a little. It is a pretty easy piece to remove and replace so once I get the TCU back I will give it a shot. If it fails, then I will switch back. Figure I would give it a shot while the car is down

#46

yes the car will calculate and see that there is more air coming out of the motor then what is going into the motor. So if there is a issue the ECU (due to zingo being JHM tuned) is sped up to detect this even more then it was stock.

Also I believe that zingo has motor mounts and a snub mount this should help cut down on the motor rocking enough to eliminate the issue of the removed Accordion hose.

Zingo to be safe check back on the hoses in a week and see if they got tugged on any.

#47

So I would say after running the car and clearing a few codes, as of now. Don’t cut out the MAF screen. Until we can get a way around it or cand come up with a solution I would pass.

I have a signal too high / too low reading that also comes up with the Traction control icon.

After a day though, the new hose is holding up fine

#48

Keep us in the loop. I think if we can duplicate the CEL issue we can have JHM tune for it. So if this comes back thats not a bad thing nessessarly

#49

If we could get the tune to cancel out that code I would see no problems at all with it. A couple times when I started the car the rpms went up and down a couple times but I think that is the car trying to right those codes. So if we can get those corrected it should be perfectly fine.

As far as the tubing. Holding up perfect so far.

#50

Update.
I’m am a jackass and didn’t secure the MAF connection. So the MAF was never plugged in. Now, it is running great without the screen and no codes. Also the new tubing is holding up great.

#51

I capped off the throttle body tube with a regular pvc cap. In my mind I think this will create a little bit of turbulence as the air passes through the tube. Is that correct/incorrect and if it’s correct is that amount of turbulence of any significance?

#52

Just a tad, but it will be much improved over stock with the silencer. If I can get ahold of a throttle body tube and some time I have been thinking about improving it. But until then this will work good.

Why do I always reply when I have had a few beers? Lol

#53

Thanks for the quick/drunken reply. I just applied the epoxy to the fender intake, bout to grind on these pvc caps. Thanks again for your time spent on this mod.

Zingo you’re in the Orlando area right? I just found out I’ll be in Lake Mary for work in the last week of November. We should get a beer or two.

#54

Haha no prob man. I might tinker a thing here and there with it.

But yeah man for sure. I’m only about 20 minutes away from there. I would be down for a couple beers

#55

Thanks Zingo, just did mine, but I decided to cut it all the way down. I used a cap from a bottle
of some greens ;D

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab342/AUDIDROID/Icamera039.jpg

Im just gonna paint the epoxy by hand, and give a lite sanding with some1500 gritt to get it smooth, since
my car is up on stands while I wait for coilovers and some other odds and ends, I’m gonna do the airbox mod as well. Great write up

-edit, I was also thinking of filling the whats left of that passage with plastic expoy, but I dont ish going into my t/b

#56

Bumping this up as I’m going to be doing this soon since I have to take apart half of the intake anyway. Got a code for the green top G62 sensor, so I’ll be replacing that as well.

What I was going to do differently though, I’m going to leave the SAI connection that is capped off on the air box in place (round port on the top tube). I don’t know if the JHM Tune gets rid of the SAI system/codes or not, but until I’d have a chance to remove and plug up the entire SAI system, I’m going to leave it in place.

I was going to get a piece of thin black plastic (1/32" thick?) that I could epoxy in place of the larger hole in the air box. Since I wouldn’t use all of the sheet, I was going to do what the person that posted previously did and cut down the silencer port by the throttle body and make the tube as straight and smooth as possible. I’d take some of the sheet of plastic and epoxy it in place there as well.

I’ve been trying to find a suitable plastic to use, and for the people worried about the epoxy not withstanding high temps, most plastics I’ve been able to find have a safe max working temp of much lower than any epoxy I’ve found and would use. Most plastics say the safe working temp is ~200F, I’m sure they work at higher temps, but probably start to soften.

Once i get it all complete, I’ll be sure to take pics and provide some feedback on the sound and how it feels when driving.

#57

Patched up the air box and the intake tube. Pics below. Also, I have a decent amount of the nylon sheet I ordered left. If anyone is interested in doing this and wants some of it, I can cut off strips wide enough to patch up the holes and send it to you for a very minimal cost (like $2). PM me for details if you’re interested. I’ll also include some 60 grit sandpaper as well so you can rough up the sheet and areas on the intake prior to gluing the sheet in place.

I’m still waiting for the epoxy to cure, so no driving yet, but it doesn’t look that bad, not that you can really see either one of them that well with the hood up. You’d have to really look for the one where the silencer was, and the other is impossible to see.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DaGcxB8K750/UVXZwoqN7RI/AAAAAAAARus/mMwHmfOnVDk/s735/20130329_124722.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SQrOxxk7sWI/UVXZulGQGZI/AAAAAAAARuk/jgWu_s2Tt4Q/s551/20130329_124906.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5_B01VzNLmo/UVXZydKCOxI/AAAAAAAARu0/VTHw8Mog_1g/s735/20130329_124713.jpg

#58

your nuts… hahahah. Looks good… .so far the 3.0 guys have gotten some strong results

#59

I’ve been out driving my car today since the epoxy has had time to cure. First few trips it didn’t feel or sound any different other than a little change to the exhaust tone. Last few drives, I’ve had some chances to step on it and go. It doesn’t feel any different other than having a more linear power onset. Then you also look down and you’re going 60 when it feels like you should only be doing 40.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 2

#60

I did this mod to my car today and was wondering if anyone has confirmed what the hose that comes off the front of the box is for!
thanks and awesome DIY to op!