We’re you ever bale to get this filled. Check with a welding gas supply place. Lots of them will be able to fill your bottle. Just make sure you put your bottle in the freezer before you go. You can sneak in a extra lb of NOS that way.
Good tip, and ill def remember that for next time…
Update:
I was up in RI this weekend, and i was able to find a performance shop (Drivers Seat in Warwick, if any of you ever find yourselves needing N20 in RI) that would fill my tank…
So i left off with my shop that i would fill the tank up and bring the car back in this coming Sat to test the system etc…
So naturally i decided i cant wait to Sat… its supposed to be all hooked up, so i wanted to test.
I have the bottle hooked up… system on, tank warmer on… purge button works, im def getting n20 through the system… get it out to a quiet patch of strait road and floor it… pretty sure it didnt fire
Now having said that, let me first also add that i had the JHM ported intake manifold and TB installed at the same time. The power gains from that alone are ver noticeable! Its almost the same increase i felt when headers were installed with a tune… serious upgrade!
So with the n20… im going back in to have them mess with it, but what could i be doing that would cause this to not function? I have heard/read a lot about a window switch? What function does that provide, and should i have one? They didnt touch on this when i picked the car up, but then the assumption was that i would be back in.
I have also seen some pics from JHM of an LED indicator light that tells you when the nitrous is firing. Is this still included with current kits?
*Edit to previous post: Also experiencing a rough idle… initially saw some black smoke on hard acceleration. Check engine light was on for a day now its off… its going back into the shop this Sat for some additional tuning work on the N20 system… just want to see if you guys can provide any insight before i take it in.
You should be able to notice when the kit fires. The car makes much more hp then tq so that can make things a little less climatic.
When you do spray the kit expect black to grey smoke to come out the pipes. The nitrous is N 02 the N molecule doesn’t burn off so you see that coming out the pipes.
I would definitely recommend checking to see what the code was.
The shop believes that the kit may be putting gas into the engine all the time, thus the rough idle and smoke, check engine etc… this sounds a bit off to me… cant imagine that happening.
From a procedural standpoint am i doing everything that i should be to get the kit to fire?
Bottle open… system on… good pressure… purge system… when ready, floor it and at 4k it should fire on its own. No?
I guess if there is some key aspect of teh system that i should have the shop look at, i want to know what this in advance.
From my testing if the plates are just putting in fuel the car will run too rich and go into limp mode. That might be the cel. They could have hooked up the selionids wrong. When you purge do you see nitrous gas spray.
What… I have never heard anything. It might not be a bad idea to make a thread. I would like to know more. I have helped a few guys that refused to go there. I never dug deeper into it but it sounds like there is something going on.
Elite seem to be retarded. They’re the morons who tried to diagnose their customer’s RS4 engine failure as a JHM tune issue…even though the tune is on over a hundred more RS4s in the US and nobody had these problems (the tune is not customized to blow certain motors and not others)
Ever since that, I’ve really thought they were not so sharp.
Im sure ill feel like an idiot once you tell me, but what are STFT, and LTFT acronyms for?
Also, I got the codes read tonight… CYLINDER 6 MISFIRE… so im going to have the shop check the plug and coil in that cylinder.
Do we think an issue like that would cause the nitrous system to not fire? Alternatively… is it possible any part of the system is causing a cylinder to misfire?