It’s not get likely the kit is causing a misfire. What would make sense is that you have a vac leak and that causes the car to run rich and have a bad idle. that would also cause a misfire.
Ok at the shop now. Misfire was a the plug in cylinder 6. one of the prong was bent in slightly… so thats cleared and the engine is running well.
Looking for help with N20 though. There is a USB running from the nitrous controller… anybody know what that plugs into and what its for? I am assuming its for interacting with the controller, but let me know.
If anybody has a list of key things that we should check, please let me know…
Again all plumbing is done, and looks correct.
We have nitrous at the purge valve… the system is just not firing.
Depending on what line your taking about that’s the line where you (or jhm) programs the controller.
The system won’t fire if you don’t have. The car over 4000 a full 4v signal from the throttle and enough fuel pressure. That and the system needs to be on. Can you verify the control box is getting all those signals and have you dry tested both the fuel and nitrous selonids
disregard on USB question… appears that throttle position input and RPM sensor input were mismatched per the JHM diagram. Was just reading through the other nitrous thread and it seems thats a standard issue.
Testing now… seems to being dry firing… next step is a wet test.
Bring it all here first so we can help. The 1/4 mile runs might taking getting used to the car and getting the launch down. Before you do anything if you have questions bring them here.
Need help troubleshooting nitrous setup… new tank, system on, good pressure… hit purge button, nothing happens. Tank is open and iv got 900psi at the gauge. What could be causing this?
The switch that came with the kit is just a momentary push button switch, right? All that does is send the voltage to the purge solenoid. Do you have a multimeter? the switch should read open when you put the leads across it’s contacts and closed (continuity or low resistence (ohms) when you press it.
All the purge switch does is send a 12V signal to the solenoid when it is pressed, pretty simple. If you want to test the solenoid, just make sure one side is wired to ground and have a wire connected to the other side and touch to the positive of your battery.
One thing to try and this is what I do when ever I service my kit. Take the fuel and nos leads off the plate get 4 bottles and put each hose into one bottle. Then turn on everything and make sure everything is activated. Purge the system then it’s good to have vag com for this. Start the car open vag com and open it to block 003. Then take the car to 3500 rpm at this point you should no longer use the dash as a reference. Only use vag com values as a reference. Lookin at vag com readings get the car to 3500 rpm. Then looking at vag com go wot. Make sure the value says 100% for throttle and you watch the rpm go past 4000 and pull off the throttle at 6500. Doing this should have triggered and discharged both fuel and nos into the bottles.
If this made sense let me know. I can do a bigger write up if needed.
Im going to try by-passing the switch first and then if the solenoid is working, ill just replace it. Justin, that sounds like a good maintenance thing to do… ill def keep that in mind!