Always love tricks. Love to see more
A couple things happened recently which are exciting and also depressing…
I finally got the engine in
I got a whole bunch of tires mounted up
http://i65.tinypic.com/wv4vbk.jpg
After seeing the inside of the intake manifold and heads, I wanted to run a catch can setup and not route back into the intake manifold. I was working on a design to pull vacuum while not running into the intake but unfortunately, I decided for the time being that I would just get the car running and work on that later.
I still wanted to run a catch can to help keep oil out of the intake so I purchased a nice baffled catch can. A normal $30 catch can doesn’t usually have baffling and I didn’t want to any foam or anything in it. It runs the possibility of shit getting into the intake you just don’t want, and not a chance I wanted to take.
I liked this catch can from mishimoto because of the filter and the internal baffled. Only downside is the extreme normal retail price. Luckily I had parts to return to Summit Racing so I only ended up paying 1/4 of the price for it
Here is the inside
http://image.superstreetonline.com/f/64366153+w660+h430+q80+re0+cr1/nissan-240sx-baffled-oil-catch
I still kept the PCV and just ran the catch in line. With the SAI pump now removed, I made a bracket to fit the already tapped holes which made for a nice easy install.
Now to the depressing side of my updates…
After finally getting the engine back in and everything hooked up(sorta). Everything needed to run the engine at least. I got it fired up, connected up to vag-com and had a code for bank2 cam sensor / engine speed sensor incorrect correlation.
After checking into a few other things, it looks like I messed up when setting the timing and now the engine will have to come back out.
Positive side of this, I finally was able to get compression and leak down tested. Leak down came back at 0-2% all on 8 cylinders which was awesome.
Compression was a bit awkward but I think that’s partially due to the incorrect timing of bank 2
Bank 1 results on a cold engine
- 150
- 145
- 145
- 145
Bank 2 results on a cold engine
5. 240
6. 230
7. 240
8. 225
At this point, I am taking my car over to my buddies shop and they will go through the timing again for me. Its been a journey so far and I am ready to have this car running. He can get it done a lot quicker than I will at this point
Best of luck to you. Keep up the good work.
Well after sitting at the shop for a week and a half, they finally started tearing into it yesterday.
They found the pilot bearing on my southbend flywheel wasn’t spinning. Looks like I may have smashed the seal on it when I installed the transmission.
Either way for anyone who runs the SB flywheel, they use bearing #6202-2RS as their pilot bearing. Luckily its a really common bearing so I had my Napa store deliver an SKF bearing
Shouldn’t be much longer and I will be driving the car home from the shop
Long delay in updates on the car. Back in November, I had taken the car to my buddies shop to have them go through the timing that I thought I have done incorrectly.
After going through the timing again and car back together, it still through an incorrect correlation code. Kinda confused with that considering Dan has done a lot of b6/7 timing jobs. So we went back through compression and leak down. Leak down was 0-2% on all 8. Cyl 1-4 were 150-155 psi and cyl 5-8 were 230-240psi
We tested and swapped all the sensors related to timing, along with voltage testing to make sure the electronic solenoids were working properly. Once that all checked OK, Dan double checked power from harness to make sure everything was set there.
Dan went through and tripled checked all the timing again. Everything was mechanically in time according to the tools.
The shop got busy so we put the car to the side for a bit while I brainstormed our next move to figure out the timing issue.
I wasnt ready to just fork up $1000 for a electronic solenoid just yet since we couldn’t confirm an issue with it. I spent hours searching for any type of clue. Anything I came up with kept pointing back to items we knew were correct and working how they should. I found a used electronic adjuster base on Wolf Auto for cheap so I bought it. I was thinking its better than spending near $1000 to swap out
Few weeks later Dan finally got back to being able to concentrate on the car. We were finally able to figure out what was causing the timing issue.
http://i65.tinypic.com/2pzl5og.jpg
The piece circled in red was not sitting correctly between the cam and the mechanical adjuster. It changed the spacing enough that it was affecting the timing, along with no allowing the proper amount of oil to flow into the mechanical adjuster
So as of 1/28/17, the car is on the road and running with zero hiccups. I def missed driving this car and finally glad having it back running 100%
http://i68.tinypic.com/2cf8cyf.jpg
Brought it to work so I could swap out for winter mode. I cant wait for nice weather so I can get out and see what this car will be capable of doing
Car looks great love the rims. What a pain it is to track down those little issues that are almost so small you cant pick it up. Glad to hear you are back on the road again. Its nice to enjoy this cool air and the extra hp it gives the car.
Honestly it was probably the last thing we expected to find wrong. Once I found the used parts from Wolf Auto, for the cost I figured I was still ahead instead of ordering brand new adjusters
I would say its deffinitly not a common issue.
Havent done too much recently. Cold weather blues but i had the car wrapped. I picked up the Maxton front splitter and side skirts. Easy to install and looks great IMO. Set up today at Cleveland’s Piston Power show in the Gellner Engineering booth
parked next to a pretty badass cobra with a blown 427
here are the other cars in the booth with us
67 chevelle & monte carlo promod
and this procharged beast. weighs 3800lbs, roughly makes around 1700-1800hp
Car looks great. Nice to see it back up and on the road. Love the plate.
well I haven’t updated in awhile.
Since the last update, I made some changes to my PCV/catch can setup where I found pinched hoses. Tracked down a couple vacuum leaks. Thought my compressor took a shit, but luckily it was only the high side switch was leaking.
Found a coolant leak, guess it was a mistake not using an Audi coolant cap for the jhm oil cooler kit. oh well
Cleaned it up today as well
http://i63.tinypic.com/au6y50.jpg
I’m working on a few more things but not going crazy (just waiting until winter for that)
-
getting rid of my custom exhaust and just going to purchase a JHM exhaust
-
trying to decide on more power? jhm supercharger? or jhm nitrous kit( i like nitrous )
-
trying wrap my head around more suspension bits. thinking of new coilovers, rear sway bar, endlinks, subframe bushing and etc
The car looks great. I love the rims.
1 I hear JHM has a 2.75" exhaust for the B6. Its something worth looking into. A good exhaust for these cars really helps. I have helped several people over the years take off restrictive catback units and install better flowing units like the 2.5 FI system that is nice and you can really feel the difference.
2 I love my JHM nitrous kit. Still I have a local friend that has a JHM stage 1 supercharged S4 and Its a great kit the power really complements the power curve. Now with JHM offering the stage 1+ kit to some people from what I have heard. I would almost consider the JHM supercharger now over my nitrous kit. Still the JHM nitrous kit is such a well built kit its really fun.
3 I just did a cheap RS4 rear sway bar on my car and it really helped IMHO. The body roll is even less now the car just feels tighter. I always felt the OEM suspension on these cars was great so I don’t have too much to offer more than that.
Kurt told me about the 2.75" exhaust before JHM released it to the public. It’s definitely an option to consider. The car right now hits a huge flat spot at the high rpm powerband. I’m beginning to think it’s due to exhaust flow honestly. With my ported heads, the car should be pulling hard through the whole power band. I did some logging and air fuel looks great through the rpms, only thing I can think is the exhaust is just not flowing well enough.
I think the ported heads will really take advantage of the supercharger over the nitrous setup. Especially if I go 2.75" exhaust. Really a good set of cams would be nice.
Sway bar is a must imo. With good endlinks. And good endlinks for the front as well would make a big difference.
Buddy of mine made it for me lol he can probably make another but he had my core support and coolers to build it around
That’s why you should sell me your bracket and have him make you a new one 
I have the 2.75" exhaust from the V2 headers back and it does make a difference on my stage 1 SC S4 before I installed the stage 1+ kit. I trapped 3 mph higher with the 2.75" exhaust over the 2.5" exhaust and everything else was equal.
So I wonder how it will work with my car being NA for the time being… Will it hurt over the 2.5?
If you’re maxed out on bolt ons, it’ll probably yield more power over traditional 2.5" fullback. Imho
If you are not going blower or nitrous anytime soon you would be fine with the 2.5. I know someone who has a FI res system for sale if you are interested.
The bigger 2.75 system is going to be helpful when you are pushing all out. Jimmy has obviously seen first hand results