I’m looking for some light weight 18s for some track and strip fun down the road. Actually already found which ones I want, but not sure on the width offset yet. One thing for sure they’ll be under 20lbs. Please do post once you have some miles with them.
I’m looking for some light weight 18s for some track and strip fun down the road. Actually already found which ones I want, but not sure on the width offset yet. One thing for sure they’ll be under 20lbs. Please do post once you have some miles with them.
Did the rear speed sensors come out of the wheel hubs for you? I couldn’t get them to pull out of either side and ended up just leaving them attached.
I’ll be picking everything up after work today, can’t wait to see the difference with the subframe bushings. Oddly, my stock rubber bushings looked fine.
What are you looking at?
Those Enkeis are the lightest 18 inch wheel that I have found at 17 something pounds. The Advans are 18 pounds which is great for an 18x9. Will definitely post pictures once everything is done and those Advans are the summer wheels/tires so I will be running them for a while.
I had to hammer a stubby 5 mm allen socket into the retaining bolt so that I didn’t round it out. Then once the bolt was out I used a hammer and a screwdriver to tap the top of the retaining bolt portion of the sensor to spin the sensor. Once the sensor spun, it loosened it up enough that I was able to work it out with a screwdriver. It is required to clean everything with a wire brush and brake cleaner before putting it all back together.
How many miles do you have? My car has just over 100K miles so mine could be more worn out than yours. Once more reason that I am doing a full rear end overhaul. Did you get the 034 Motorsport rear differential carrier bushing inserts? I did and now the rear diff can’t move basically at all with the Apikol red/race rear diff mount.
I’m at 101,700 now. The bolts actually came out fairly easily despite being fairly corroded. I tried hitting it with some wd40 and tapping it from the side with a flat head screw driver and a hammer. It didn’t work though. It almost looked as if the metal had bonded between the sensor and the hub. It tried scraping along the edge to try and loosen it up but I felt I was gonna destroy it trying to pull it out. It didn’t budge at all. I’ll put up a picture in my thread when I recap everything I’ve done these last couple of weeks.
Did you decide you treat your subframe for rust at all?
I didn’t realize 034 had bushings for the carrier. Are they these?
Maybe I should order them now and get them in while its out? It’s crazy how many things 034 has for the platform that I didn’t realize. Just saw that they released lower control arms with spherical bushings for the front. I almost ordered them but felt $1000 was a lot to spend on something that I didn’t need right now.
My wheels which are 18x9 ET35 weigh in at 17.6lbs. Was considering buying titanium lugs but $700 for 1.5lbs of savings over the 4 corners is ridiculous.
Did the rear speed sensors come out of the wheel hubs for you? I couldn’t get them to pull out of either side and ended up just leaving them attached.
I’ll be picking everything up after work today, can’t wait to see the difference with the subframe bushings. Oddly, my stock rubber bushings looked fine.
Okay so we are pretty close mileage wise.
No, I did not treat the subframe for rust. Wasn’t worried about it at the time but I probably should have.
That link is what I was talking about. I shall see what a difference that they make. Figured for the intro price that they were worth it.
Yeah 034 Motorsport sells a bunch of stuff for these cars and I have most all of it including those front lower control arms with spherical bearings. It was hard to spend $1K on front lowers but so far they have held up really well.
Yeah I couldn’t justify the titanium lugs. That is a bit much and with all the different wheels that I have it would be ridiculous. The same company sells carbon fiber wheels for like $15K which is crazy.
What are you looking at?
Those Enkeis are the lightest 18 inch wheel that I have found at 17 something pounds. The Advans are 18 pounds which is great for an 18x9. Will definitely post pictures once everything is done and those Advans are the summer wheels/tires so I will be running them for a while.
I had to hammer a stubby 5 mm allen socket into the retaining bolt so that I didn’t round it out. Then once the bolt was out I used a hammer and a screwdriver to tap the top of the retaining bolt portion of the sensor to spin the sensor. Once the sensor spun, it loosened it up enough that I was able to work it out with a screwdriver. It is required to clean everything with a wire brush and brake cleaner before putting it all back together.
How many miles do you have? My car has just over 100K miles so mine could be more worn out than yours. Once more reason that I am doing a full rear end overhaul. Did you get the 034 Motorsport rear differential carrier bushing inserts? I did and now the rear diff can’t move basically at all with the Apikol red/race rear diff mount.
I’m at 101,700 now. The bolts actually came out fairly easily despite being fairly corroded. I tried hitting it with some wd40 and tapping it from the side with a flat head screw driver and a hammer. It didn’t work though. It almost looked as if the metal had bonded between the sensor and the hub. It tried scraping along the edge to try and loosen it up but I felt I was gonna destroy it trying to pull it out. It didn’t budge at all. I’ll put up a picture in my thread when I recap everything I’ve done these last couple of weeks.
Did you decide you treat your subframe for rust at all?
I didn’t realize 034 had bushings for the carrier. Are they these?
Maybe I should order them now and get them in while its out? It’s crazy how many things 034 has for the platform that I didn’t realize. Just saw that they released lower control arms with spherical bushings for the front. I almost ordered them but felt $1000 was a lot to spend on something that I didn’t need right now.
My wheels which are 18x9 ET35 weigh in at 17.6lbs. Was considering buying titanium lugs but $700 for 1.5lbs of savings over the 4 corners is ridiculous.
Okay so we are pretty close mileage wise.
No, I did not treat the subframe for rust. Wasn’t worried about it at the time but I probably should have.
That link is what I was talking about. I shall see what a difference that they make. Figured for the intro price that they were worth it.
Yeah 034 Motorsport sells a bunch of stuff for these cars and I have most all of it including those front lower control arms with spherical bearings. It was hard to spend $1K on front lowers but so far they have held up really well.
Yeah I couldn’t justify the titanium lugs. That is a bit much and with all the different wheels that I have it would be ridiculous. The same company sells carbon fiber wheels for like $15K which is crazy.
Don’t you mean these?
http://store.034motorsport.com/034motorsport-rear-differential-carrier-mount-bushing-insert-kit-b6-b7-audi-a4-s4-rs4-billet-aluminum.html
Paints like POR-15 and Eastwood Chassis black seem easy to apply to the subframe even with it still on the car. Other other similar rust paints.
Jimmy, how does the car feel now?
Mine has made a lot of noise (squeaking and creaking) from that area since installing the “bushings”.
Don’t you mean these?
http://store.034motorsport.com/034motorsport-rear-differential-carrier-mount-bushing-insert-kit-b6-b7-audi-a4-s4-rs4-billet-aluminum.html
Paints like POR-15 and Eastwood Chassis black seem easy to apply to the subframe even with it still on the car. Other other similar rust paints.
Jimmy, how does the car feel now?
Mine has made a lot of noise (squeaking and creaking) from that area since installing the “bushings”.
Those are actually just inserts that utilize the stock bushings rather than new bushings like the ones in the link I provided. They look interesting though because they’re supposedly the best of both worlds. Definitely more expensive though.
Also, I don’t care what anybody says. You can’t properly treat and paint the subframe with it still in the car. You’ll miss more than half of it simply because you won’t be able to get to it. You’ll never be able to prep it properly. Plus you’ll spend a ton of time masking the rest of the stuff surrounding the subframe off.
Those are actually just inserts that utilize the stock bushings rather than new bushings like the ones in the link I provided. They look interesting though because they’re supposedly the best of both worlds. Definitely more expensive though.
Also, I don’t care what anybody says. You can’t properly treat and paint the subframe with it still in the car. You’ll miss more than half of it simply because you won’t be able to get to it. You’ll never be able to prep it properly. Plus you’ll spend a ton of time masking the rest of the stuff surrounding the subframe off.
Finally got some time to work on my brakes between working on other peoples’ cars this week. It has been crazy how many people have been stopping by for stuff. So here goes:
I had to do some modifications to my R8 front brake caliper to make them fit under all my wheels. First I had to remove the front lower support bar. It gets in the way and the eight piston RS4 front calipers don’t have it anyways. Of course Brembro does things right in the first place so the two bolts that hold that bracket on have red locktite on the threads. Which means I had to drill them out, yay. The bar was already removed on the left caliper and the right caliper still has it in the below picture.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0029_zpsenuu3huk.jpg
Next I had to grind the sides of the caliper down to make clearance for the inner lip of my Enkei wheels. Normally that part of the caliper has a raised edge for the part numbers and Brembro logo. I ground it down to the point that it is flat with the edge.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0030_zpsz9wsofbn.jpg
Closer shot of the ground down portion.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0032_zps8t7ygudi.jpg
Here I have all four calipers and the rear caliper brackets ready for the next step. Before this I rebuilt all the calipers so the front Brembros got new caliper pistons and seals, dust boots, and pad retaining brackets with pins along with the rear calipers getting new piston seals and dust boots and the brackets have new dust boots for the caliper slide pins. The front caliper pad retaining brackets with pins and the dust boots for the rear caliper bracket slide pins are not pictured because they would get in the way for the next step.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0051_zpsrsnqkhbh.jpg
The next step of course is to paint everything black. I used G2 brake caliper paint in black and here are two pictures after the first coat.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0053_zpsm4gwluvk.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0052_zps69mahtdx.jpg
This picture was taken after the last coat of paint was applied. The G2 paint sets up really well and it should be look great on the car. Between two kits of the G2 paint, I got three coats on all the components which is along the same lines as what other people that have used it have noticed.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0054_zpslckovimu.jpg
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Looking good man. Sorry if I missed it but what size brake discs are you running up front?
365 mm.
Basically I will have RS4 front brakes.
Finally got some time to work on my brakes between working on other peoples’ cars this week. It has been crazy how many people have been stopping by for stuff. So here goes:
I had to do some modifications to my R8 front brake caliper to make them fit under all my wheels. First I had to remove the front lower support bar. It gets in the way and the eight piston RS4 front calipers don’t have it anyways. Of course Brembro does things right in the first place so the two bolts that hold that bracket on have red locktite on the threads. Which means I had to drill them out, yay. The bar was already removed on the left caliper and the right caliper still has it in the below picture.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0029_zpsenuu3huk.jpg
Next I had to grind the sides of the caliper down to make clearance for the inner lip of my Enkei wheels. Normally that part of the caliper has a raised edge for the part numbers and Brembro logo. I ground it down to the point that it is flat with the edge.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0030_zpsz9wsofbn.jpg
Closer shot of the ground down portion.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0032_zps8t7ygudi.jpg
Here I have all four calipers and the rear caliper brackets ready for the next step. Before this I rebuilt all the calipers so the front Brembros got new caliper pistons and seals, dust boots, and pad retaining brackets with pins along with the rear calipers getting new piston seals and dust boots and the brackets have new dust boots for the caliper slide pins. The front caliper pad retaining brackets with pins and the dust boots for the rear caliper bracket slide pins are not pictured because they would get in the way for the next step.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0051_zpsrsnqkhbh.jpg
The next step of course is to paint everything black. I used G2 brake caliper paint in black and here are two pictures after the first coat.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0053_zpsm4gwluvk.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0052_zps69mahtdx.jpg
This picture was taken after the last coat of paint was applied. The G2 paint sets up really well and it should be look great on the car. Between two kits of the G2 paint, I got three coats on all the components which is along the same lines as what other people that have used it have noticed.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll37/Jimmybones777/SAM_0054_zpslckovimu.jpg
[/
Looking good man. Sorry if I missed it but what size brake discs are you running up front?
365 mm.
Basically I will have RS4 front brakes.