wish this was easier for you! must be excruciating
Way to stick with it and come up with an alternate plan. Not many can do that. Nice work.
so happy with the mod on the blue ac line and the red modified ac line that goes to one side of the rad fitting ok i started with the relocation of the ac dryer/filter, this is going behind the our uk passenger front wing. the only snag to that is thats where the front vacuum reservoir lives.
i removed my wing to get the length and route of the ac lines right, for future uk kits this should be all doable with the wing on.
jhm say to relocate the front reservoir to down behind the front o/s aux rad on a uk kit. i have decided not bother refitting the front reservoir as i dont believe my car needs it.
the rs4 has two vacuum reservoirs one like in the pic and one in the boot/inner quarter panel void, these are used to store the vacuum needed to actuate the flaps in the manifold (mine are gone), airbox flap (mine is gone), exhaust flaps (dont have any).looking at the self study guide the vacuum system is also linked in to the brake servo, brake system vacuum pump and the suction jet pump. so i think for my vacuum needs the one vacuum reservoir in the boot should be sufficient. im not sure whether the brake servo will ever take vacuum from the remaining reservoir as its feed from the suction jet pump and the electric brake system vacuum pump but they are connected somewhere so i left it in.
the green line from the vacuum reservoir heads to the back of the car to the rear res, the black thicker line heads into the engine bay to feed the various flap solenoids and also connects to the vac line from under the inlet manifold with the one way valve on.
i bought some 4mm id silicone pipe and a new one way valve and ran a new line from under the manifold, round and behind the wing straight to the green line that heads off to the rear res.
old valve and part of the vacuum pipe
front res and other part of the vacuum line no longer needed (i hope)
http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r794/sarrs4/IMG_20140809_133053_zps755d65e0.jpg
so with the front vacuum res sorted it was time to rehome the filter/dryer, this is hung from the bracket that would normally hold the front res.
filter/dryer trial hung and pipes and pipes attached
the clips that hold the dryer/filter were slightly to big so i added a bit of rubber to tighten it up a bit.
routing the pipes along the void behind the top of the wing and over the front washer bottle.
the pipes run behind the passenger side headlight, one goes down behind the aux rad and to the a/c pump the other pipe is the long blue one i modified the thread angle on earlier this has to run back to the other side of the car.
i hung the wing back on to check for fitment and all is good, tight but good.
just enough room to get the wheel arch liner back in, looks like i need to raise my suspension up a touch or roll the wing edge as the marks are where the tyre have been rubbing on compression.
pipes tucked away nice
with the the dryer hung it was time to make the last adjust to the long blue line, we new from the outset that this pipe would probably need shortening depending on the final route. jhm recommended running the long line along behind the bumper reinforcement bar back to the other side of the car, so i hung the bumper without the front panel on so we could check the length.
with both ends of the pipe attached and roughly held in position with cable ties you can see the pipe is to long (the sag in the middle).
we undid the pipe at the airbox end pulled the slack through marked it up chopped the end off and it was of to pirtek to get them to crimp on the spare connector jhm sent, big thanks to pirtek (uk hydraulic and ac line specialists) as they crimped it on for free!.
with the ac system sorted it was back to the rest of the install.
We definitely appreciate you being patient with us thus far!
yep there are a few differences!
i wish it had been easier to! but its all good, learnt loads getting my hands dirty.
thanks
no worries jake, i have a feeling its going to be worth it!
one of the requirements of the stage 1 kit is you have to give up our drivers side fog light (your passengers), as the back side edge of the foglight housing will just come into contact with the pulley on the supercharger.
this doesnt bother me as in 8 years of ownership i have only used them a handful of times, for the time being i will modify the foglight and just have the lense in place and run the resistor in the kit to keep the bulb out warning at bay.
i might look into some sort of led conversion which would allow me to shorten the back side of the housing but thats a job for another day…
with the bumper on you can see how close the supercharger would be to the foglight.
with the bumper back off i removed the bracket that holds the foglight in for more clearance, i also shaved off a couple of centimeters of plastic from the back of the bumper just to be sure.
back on the car to triple check for clearance, all good.
by this time my replacement o rings for the oil separator had turned up so we decided to finish up that section of the install.
somewhere under all those pipes is the oil separator re attached. we managed to nick another o ring trying to put it on, it would of been a lot easier if this was bolted on while the manifold was off but on the third try and third o ring success!.
another job that need doing in this area is you need to take a vacuum feed off the bottom of the intake manifold to the diverter/bypass valve. in the instructions this can be done one of two ways. if you have a later model rs4 (2007-2008) you already have a capped of nipple on the bottom of the manifold just after the throttle body, you just remove the cap and run a pipe from there to the diverter/bypass valve.
if you have an earlier rs4 (2005-2006) they did not come with a spare capped of nipple so you have to “T” into the vacuum line for the fuel evap system.
my car is a 2007 so should have had the spare nipple but because i have mrc’s stage 2 manifold (ported out and flaps and shafts removed) the manifold that went back on my car must have been an earlier one (mrc do the stage 2 manifolds on an exchange basis) so i have to pinch my vacuum from the evap circuit.
the fuel evap circuit consists of a vacuum line from the inlet manifold behind the throttle body to the N80 purge valve from there a pipe runs round the back of the engine and through the inner wing to a charcoal filter (not sure where the charcoal filter canister is on a l/h/d usa car?) which is then connected to your petrol tank, the idea being excess fuel vapor is sucked from the tank via the vacuum provided from the intake manifold when the ecu tells the N80 valve to open.
i needed to tap into the section from the manifold to the N80 valve.
here you can see the one way valve and T piece i had to install
http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r794/sarrs4/jhm%20supercharger/EVAP_zps2b181b7e.jpg
so with that done the list of jobs to do were getting smaller, time to get the pulleys and belt on i think
pulley time!.
idler pulleys ready to go on
old crank pulley off, this weighs a ton!. you need to keep the dowel for the lightweight jhm pulley
all fitted, idler pulley bolts and crank pulley bolts red locktited
belt on.
another job done, time to get the intake pipe work on.
here at the bottom of the pic you can see the intake pipe with the bypass pipe work connected to the crank case ventilation pipe work.
the crank case ventilation pipe attaches to the crank case on bank 1 and runs over the engine to the “Y” piece on the oil separator. from there the oem pipe connects to the breather on bank 2.
rest of the intake pipe work fitted, air filter on, maf extension wire in and diverter/bypass valve plumbed into the vacuum feed from under the manifold
OK this is now up there with jBones for “best build thread”… love the annotated pictures!
Great work man, thanks for all the details.
excellent attention to detail! love this thread.
Fantastic pictures and great explanations of the differences between the LHD and RHD cars.
Don’t worry, I have more to come in October.
Nice work!
Excellent write up for us having the project in the pipeline!!
Thanks a lot!
it should be noted that this usually takes a day at a shop…sar is just being very thorough and is a bit of a trailblazer being a RHD car, overcoming many obstacles. He’s also doing it in his spare time outside of his normal life, not having a shop do it for him.
Someone PM’d me about this thread and asked if it really takes a month to install the JHM stage 1 kit lol. So just in case someone is watching and wondering…it doesn’t.
It takes 3.5 Full Metal Jackets. Get some.
To expand on that, he is also documenting the install with great pictures and notes, that in itself takes a ton of time outside of actual time wrenching. That is a huge reason why I sometimes neglect getting pictures and details during my own installation…it’s truly a pain in the ass.
He has also fabricated some items that take time, but he is going above and beyond most installations with great success.
Thanks again for all of the pictures and amazing work SAR, the work you are putting in will be priceless to the future RHD JHM customers!
^^^^ What he said x2 
+1 Karma to SAR
Definitely some great info and pictures for anyone w/ an RHD RS4 contemplating such a move.