Very cool! Who did that?
Had my friend in my home town do it for me. Got a used set from a guy on Facebook.how much did they cost you
899 I believe. USD.
Not to bad
Cars getting closer. Audi on Monday to unlock the transmission, freshly painted rear bumper and new Ask Carbon rear splitter on Monday. Still stuck without a hood until Seibon produces their next B8.5 batch.
Getting close! You will love it!
So finally made an account here, seems this forum is a little different than audizine but i have a couple questions regarding the headers. I will be having my car in the shop to remove my headers and have them be modified to run catless since i will not be able to send my headers to JHM and have them do it because of how long that wait time will be.
As of right now i decided it was time to go catless and get stage 2 at the same time, mostly because I am running stage 1 right now with one of my headers practically catless after we used a horoscope to check the life of the cat and saw that there was nothing there and may be the reason for my constant CEL. My car has been running bad since I got the tune and this is most likely the reason.
I also wanted to know what parts I will need as far as tuning and the modification process. Will I need both the new power connect cable and the old one or will just the new one for tcu and ecu work?
I also read around about SAI deletes and that it can reduce weight and is not needed once you go catless, not sure on all the details and is why im asking.
I will appreciate any feedback and any new information for when my car goes in the shop and to make sure i have everything ordered.
WOW you would definitely have some issues if you had a majorly damaged cat.
If you already have the JHM tune you should not need to do anything as the cable can do both the ECU and DSG. If you donāt already have the JHM flash cable you will need to get that from them to be able to flash at home.
I deleted the Sai pumps, if your taking the cats out, itās easy as hell to get to, if you do it later it will be hard but still doable just hard and have to take off stuff to get to them.
Do i need the SAI delete plates?
Yeah my car has been running bad for who knows hows long but it became noticeable once i got the stage 1 tune, i also realized that my left exhaust is much loader and raspier then my right exhaust which i suppose still has the cat.
You can either leave in the SAI valves or make it a clean removal and pull the SAI valves. The valves bolt to the back of the cylinder heads and JHM and probably 034 motorsports make a Aluminum block off plates.
Yah you do unless you make them yourself jhms was really bad quality
I canāt complain about the quality of the blockoff plates, they are just cut out of 3/16" or 1/4" aluminum sheet. Mine were flat and the holes drilled in the right place. Not worth my time to fabricate something like that. But, I received my 16 ton pipe bender yesterday and have some 2.75" 304SS on the way so weāll see how the new exhaust goes.
If you have the original Cheetah cable, that wonāt work for stage 2, youāll need the new cable for that. Contact me and I can get you set up with the tune if you havenāt done it already.
Ykes Id do what you can to remove the cats asap. Thatās not good to have that out of balance like that. Do you need the SAI block off plates. It would be smart to just get them and remove the SAI system. Itās not hard to but it is one of those things that is just a smart thing to do when your removing your cats.
The block off plates are an easy thing to install. like hahnmgh63 said. They are not a sexy piece. Its an incredibly simple plate. not to knock what mblais said but itās hard to make a very simple block off plate sexyā¦ I suppose you could try to spruce it up its not worth it. But for the money and time itās not worth making. Iāve installed tons of them. They are pain free to install.
How easy are they to install with the engine in the car ? I really want to do this as Iāve got my SAI deleted on my map but Iām a bit worried about doing the removal part on the engine. Do you have any tips or a way to get to the back of the engine to put the plates on. Any guide to do these would be most appreciated 
Steve, unless you have really small hands you will probably need to drop the transmission down a little in order to get a little angle on the engine so you can reach up there from the back. Might even then be able to reach down from on top with the transmission lowered a few inches. Just be carefule and watch the angle as you lower the back of the transmission a little the bottom/front of the engine will pivot and you donāt want to crush the cooling fans. Also be careful you donāt lower too much that you put the driveshaft joint in a bind.
Maybe someone else will pipe in as I had the benefit of having my engine on a stand when I did mine, and even now Iāve got a lift in my shop so reaching it from the bottome is easier said by me than done by someone without a lift.
Ok thank you for the info on this, ive had a look at mine and i can see itās tight in there . Iāve also looked from the top and you can see them just about if you removed the throttle bodyās there might be a chance to get to the bolts but again looks tight in there.
I am a bit nervous to lower the transmission on my own as all I have is Jack stands and me lying underneath in my garage plus Iāve never dropped the transmission before ! Iām willing to give it a go providing I know what and how to do it of course.
Steve, I just took a look at my engine (pics posted in the other thread). For our LHD cars you could easily do the right side blockoff plate with a couple of lines unhooked, the Left side would need the MAF removed. Might be able to do on yours then too but I havenāt closeups of a RHD engine compartment. You would be reaching down there and going by feel as it is just under the overhand of the cylinder head cam housing but easily doable. I think they were T30 Torx, 2 each.