I did 23 in the front because when they are square, the front sticks out further than the back. With the slight stagger, it looks more symmetric. Purely cosmetic, and it doesn’t adversely affect anything. In this shot you can see the symmetry. It is a bit deceiving though as the wheels don’t poke at all, just looks that way in the photo.
Anyway, 12 pounds per corner with those forgelines is a huge weight savings.
http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i401/canmoman/photo_zpscce2d1f2.jpg
the fronts stick out a bit too much at ET stock -10
perfect really
8 and 10 or 5 and 10 is great
I am 0 and 10
some guys go 8 and 12
can u post a few more stance pics. maybe I should so the same as you and add a few mm to the front. your car looks great btw. ive never even seen a white one in person.
does anyone know the weights of oem seats vs euro seats?
I found the weight for the recaro sportster seat which is 33.1 lbs. with these u give up power and heated seats but they look like they belong in the car. I believe I read somewhere that the oem seats were aprox 100lbs but I cant find that thread now.
70lbs per seat is a significant savings if that number is correct.
it’s about 30 lbs difference per seat
euro seats are worthless for acceleration. Keep that in mind.
Again, you just ordered a supercharger. At this point, little bits, will no longer help you accelerate. The amount of power added…or weight cut…to accelerate from 11.6@118 to something faster is quite significant
While a stock car that runs 13.0 @ 106.5 might see a half car length bump by swapping in Euro seats, LW wheels and a LW battery, a mid 11 second car will see almost nothing from it.
a wise man once told me, “adding power makes you faster in a straight line, subtracting weight makes u faster everywhere.”
I have an insanely rich friend and his family owns a R8 and aventador and a mp4-12c. they race them regularly and I like to join them when I can so that’s also on my mind when thinking weight. that’s also why I haven’t bought the lightweight rotors yet they wont hold up to road course abuse.
btw his mom drives the R8 daily and all year round and she loves it.
money is good!
i wish i had that much of it!
Sure but my point isn’t only that you shouldn’t do it because of the limited bump on oerformance… It’s also (mentioned earlier) that you’re reaching a level where the cost of these weight reductions vs the payoff is getting ridiculous.
If you have aventador money, sure go nuts and spend $10,000 to shed the next 25 lbs. And another $10,000 for the next 15 (none of it rotating…just sprung weight which wise men will also tell you you will never feel in a million years) .
I see yer point. as far as seats go I may do the recaro cs for the added side support and weight saving but its not that high on my list. I would def not pay the ridiculous prices the euro seats go for, as much as I lovem that’s just ludicrous money.
adding some actual data here.
oem battery=58.6lbs
braille battery=17lbs
weight savings of 41.6lbs
u can get a battery as light as 7 pounds but u give up way too many CCA to make it practical for daily use.
Will be interesting to see how this one does in the winter here
+1 I would hope he keeps his OEM battery for the uber cold days…
It will struggle at minus 10. It’s 475cca. I wouldn’t rely on it if I drove the car in the dead of winter.
I think it would surprise some how important cranking amps are to these cars. When I rebuilt my S4s heads my battery went dead and on the first start I tried using a jump from my 07 silverado. The car just turned over and over and wouldn’t fire. I thought “oh shit” but decided to try the Q5 for a jump. It fired up first try…apparently my truck battery wasn’t up to the task of firing that little 4.2
Haha ditto. The only car that can jump start the rs4 is the v8 touraeg and the only car that can jump the touraeg is the rs4. I also found a Cayenne Turbo owner trying to get his car jumped by a truck. The RS4 succeeded where others had failed!
im usually into snow removal In the winters and one year I had a tractor that wouldn’t start if if it was below minus 15 and at the time I was driving an 89 civic hatch for a winter beater. I made a set of cables out of 1 gauge wire and my little civic would get that massive tractor to bark every time.
Sorry this took so long. Here are some shots I took today.
Front View:
http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i401/canmoman/IMGP0992_zps853f1bb7.jpg
Top View Front Wheel:
http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i401/canmoman/IMGP0991_zpsc5024bf0.jpg
http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i401/canmoman/IMGP0990_zps03b96f61.jpg
Again for reference: stock tire on 19X9 ET23 front and ET 19 rear
looks perfect!
Why do you say lightweight rotors won’t hold up to road course abuse? I have JHM’s in the rear and stoptech aero rotors in the front, and they have been fantastic so far on my B8.5 S4 at the track (2 DE’s with these on: 4 days total of normal HPDE running). I heated my brakes up enough to melt the rubber protecting the caliper lines (the one that connects fluid from one side to another) and to make my bright red calipers maroon. I also ate through a set of carbotech xp20’s in the front.
While I know the RS4 OE rotors are 2-piece, I’m not sure what type of floating hardware they employ. The JHM or stoptech or Giro Disc (http://www.girodisc.com/) or racing brake (http://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7126.htm) rotors will hold up great at the track. Truly floating will allow the outer rings to expand and not damage/warp the inner Al hat. The weight savings of 2-piece rotors is well documented.
Anyways, just food for thought.
