wow thats crazy it broke that way :o
that’s shitty man. I cant see why they wouldn’t replace it on warrantee. how violently were u whippin yer tail around lol?
I tried coming up with an explanation of how it broke like this but I can’t. I makes no sense considering it was the rear outside corner this happened to which would have been compressed during the turn. This looks like it extended fully as the direction of the break is downward.
I agree, I was just making a turn onto a highway. Fast but nothing that should break a strut mount.
Received my PLX devices boost gauge today.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/30/31e36ca538cf05dda41645d9a7710f59.jpg
I looked around and found this install DIY for the ECS vent gauge.
My question now is, where is the best place to tap for the vacuum line on the S4?
Should I tap into this tiny vacuum line?
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/30/09daceeef59f771375b4f8292cf6b4b4.jpg
Or do I go into one of these lines?
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/30/d5786414458d3b70aabf693b82cb95ac.jpg
The one on the left in the last picture goes down to the diverter valve?
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/30/e1cdc659507699a18f0972b9383503e8.jpg
Also, my next question would be, how best to tap into the power. If you watch that ECS video, you’ll see they tap into the headlight switch, they just have 4 wires. This one has 2.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/30/33788ce1dc08096019d24e0c954c9166.jpg
So I’d go black to brown and red to what?
Thanks in advance for all the help guys.
Ask JHM where to tap for boost.
Use an add-a-fuse on the side fuse panel for a switched 12v source. Don’t hack into any wiring.
I did this on my accusump system, easiest and cleanest way to wire power. Black can go to any ground on the vehicle. I found one right by the side fuses box
That add a fuse is a great idea. I’ve never actually seen one before so thanks. I’ll call JHM Monday about tapping into the vacuum line.
The boost tap. You don’t want to use the one in the first picture as that’s for the SAI. The next one has a check valve next to it so you don’t want to use that. The last one would work from what I can see but you really want to tap into one of the lines coming off the elbow where the throttle body is
Thanks Justin, you called it. Dru got back to me today and told me to tap the line running to the diverter valve.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/02/bb8d5c27d1ff5afc3c45404dca348d28.jpg
This thread delivers!
Just wanted to say I love reading your updates. This is my favourite car build thread online lately.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks man, and welcome again.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/06/537f558d588d82d6cd0cba5701f7261a.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/06/e742ebea32af86a6b64c086e0384f474.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/06/391bca728203b958efd60e7a4d916423.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/06/7a556d66c68968b6d1b6a7d2639a26de.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/06/4fd704d00b8c5f24e56f9711bb5d5fde.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/06/b70bce57ecb5f7e99c3dc6adba760b90.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/06/107c1fa285451e2c6e3daf6b4f40284f.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/06/08db8cfe60d3da4d85c7808153915d3d.jpg
I’m getting 12v of power in the plug. I plug it in and it turns on. All the lights flash from green through red and back. It turns off and never comes back on. Unplug and check with the multimeter and it’s still getting over 12v of power despite it turning off. Plug it back in and it does the same thing. Nothing else ever happens. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for any help provided.
Run a quick line direct from the battery. Make sure you have a solid ground. Doing that will eliminate one variable. Is the gauge some that you can turn off and on.
Thanks for replying. The ground is definitely solid. Not sure I have enough line to get to the trunk. There are 3 terminals underneath the dash that are all hot. I could probably try running it there really quick? It doesn’t turn on/off. Once it has power it’s supposed to turn on and be ready to go in less than 5 seconds.
Take a picture under the dash there should be a one that stands out 75 red with a circle that’s 12v key on power
My buddy and I were looking for the 75 yesterday and couldn’t find it.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/07/8a853e5f24ef4c63d517d4b3e6297191.jpg
I ran it to the bottom of the 3 terminals in this picture and it did the same thing. Came on and then turned of.
When you tried running into the fuse box with that link, which terminal did you plug into? I ran my gauge to the wipers and run 2 fuses on the link to run both
The tow assembly. The link does have 2 slots. 1 for the original fuse in the spot and 1 to add. I could try running it through a terminal that is being used but I confirmed there is still power coming through the plug after the car is running with a multimeter. It actually gets up closer to 14v once the car is running. I have a 12v battery in the garage that I’m going to try hooking it up to to see if that works. If not there may be something wrong with the sensor module or gauge I guess.
Never hurts to try another terminal. Eliminate that as a possibility. When you checked for power did you check at the gauge to make sure the power is there and not just at the terminal?
If you have power to the gauge and a good ground, I would think the gauge is faulty. How many wires from the gauge? 1 power, 1 ground, 1 for sensor?
I checked at the plug that goes into the sensor module which supplies power to the gauge as well. The sensor module power plug is 2 wires ground/power as well as the plug that the gauge uses.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/07/f4fd93d1f3ad9ae02975b315ca7a0084.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/07/b23b21667021833e7918331ec7372cbf.jpg