MDUBZ those wheels really make the car look aggressive. I like that your garage looks like a bomb shelter your supposed to have a safe place to work on cars. It’s not how it looks but how it works.
Thanks man, I appreciate it. I think maybe I’ll give that a shot this summer, looks pretty good. My window trim is starting to get all oxidized and nasty looking and from what I’ve read there’s no real way to fix it other than to wrap it or buy new trim. I thought about maybe doing it in a brushed aluminum wrap to match the mirrors and trunk trim but idk yet.
So after a month of the car sitting on jack stands, I finally got everything installed and the car is back on the ground. The parts I installed include: 034 front and rear subframe bushings, 034 spherical bearings for the front upper adjustable control arms, 034 rear upper adjustable control arms, 034 rear differential carrier inserts, rear tie arms, and finally the JHM rear LSD.
While everything was out I also went ahead and had the front subframe welded to fix the crunch noise I was getting while braking, treated both subframes for rust and painted them, painted my rear calipers/carriers black, and painted my exhaust tips black. I also went ahead and ripped the crappy plastidip off my car which took forever because that shit sucks, and painted the trim black with actual paint. I also decided to do the rear valence which was still the stock gray plastic. It was stained with tar and oil so this made sense. Finally, I replaced the rubber boots on the control arms as they were completely ripped.
I realize it’s almost May, but I’m going to wait another 3-4 weeks to make sure I don’t get caught out in the snow and then I’m going to install the rims.
I also had a few mishaps along the way. Broke a rear sway bar bracket bolt, broke a rear upper strut mount bolt, broke a front sway bar bracket bolt, and finally broke 2 transmission crossmembers. It was definitely a learning experience with my car and also getting used to using an impact. I also somehow ripped 2 of the wires out of the front ride height sensor plug. Hoping I can solder that back together tomorrow at work but if not somebody may need to help me find one.
Here’s a few pictures to recap what I did. When I get a chance in the sun tomorrow I’ll take some pictures of the rear of the car now that it’s almost fully murdered out.
I am going to have to take my rear subframe out to take care of the rust now since that is a good idea. Never fully put it back into place before just had everything loosely installed.
Also like the black brake calipers and brackets. I just painted mine today.
Let’s get this damn car on the ground again MDUBZ…I think you started your suspension install when I started building my house…my house is almost done, lol
Seriously though I like to take my time, everything looks great and I applaud your attention to detail. I hope to do some similar things to the RS4.
You should have tried POR15 for coating the subframes, it’s fucking awesome.
Edit: where are damn pictures of it together? on those wheels
Also, why did anyone else have this car again? You seem to be able to turn a wrench pretty well.
It’s on the ground now. I drove it to work today. But yea, I pulled everything out on March 28th so it’s been a while. Driving on super shitty roads, the car definitely suffers from more NVH, but I’m fine with it. Never heard of POR15. I used this stuff for treating the rust:
And topped that with rust resistant paint. The front subframe wasn’t really that bad. I really just wanted to cover up the new welds. The rear subframe on the other hand was rusted like crazy, mainly on the welds too. It made me nervous to think ill be driving the car almost 200mph in less than 2 months.
Wheels are going on in another 3-4 weeks or so. I really don’t want to get stuck in snow with them on since I’m doing Michelin PSSs. It’s basically summer here now but that doesn’t mean shit in Colorado.
I brought it to Avalon Motorsports because I don’t have a shop press or welding equipment. I’m actually looking to buy my first house here pretty shortly though, and I will be decking my garage out. But either way, they pressed the old bushing out, the new bushings in, same for the spherical bearings, and finally I felt more comfortable having them install the LSD so I just brought them the rear final drive.
i went back a few pages to see what all the specs were on those wheels. sorry if i missed it but what are those? make/weight/size/offset. theyre fucking gorgeous. i may just be copying you for wheels. i went to order those GA1R forgeline wheels we were talking about in another thread and with the Canadian dollar where its at 4 wheels came a little over 8k Canadian. fuck that i said!. so ya very interested in yours.
Yeah those Forgeline wheels are pricey. Mine are BC Forged RS-41s in 18x9 ET35. The fronts are flat faced for the big brake kit and the rears are deep concave. The rears are 17.6lbs and the fronts were about 18lbs I think. I got in on a group buy that got me $1050($250 of this was free shipping) discount all together so they came out to $3600. I actually got excited for you because I remember somebody posted a set of these on here for really cheap when I bought mine. But they’re sold already.
shhhheeeeeiiiittt too late. that’s a good weight and reasonable price. im gonna look into those in 19 satin bronze for my car. hopefully still under 20 pounds.
yer car is lookin tits bro. good work, good taste.
I’d like to see an rs4 on volk te37 in some custom fabbed up size like 19x9.5 et 20 or something. Gunmetal. Someone make that happen! They’d weigh the same as a an orchid and would look great i think.
The BC Forged are actually going to weigh less I would think. Tire rack says the 18x8s weigh in at 17.6lbs. That’s what my deep concave wheel weighs in at and its an 18x9.
Those 18x10s for sale in the classifieds were 18lbs. If you email them I bet they’ll tell you what 19s weigh.