Wouldn’t a shorter, tighter coiled spring be stiffer?
So this is how I analyzed it. I may be wrong.
Squeezing them with my fingers they feel about the same. A taller spring will be compressed more than a shorter spring in the diverted valve. As a spring becomes more compressed, the force needed to compress it further increases. Or at least that’s how I understand it. So using that, it would make sense to me that a spring with the same weight compressed less would be softer.
The length of the spring doesn’t affect the spring rate but the number of active coils does. Increasing the number of coils decreases the spring rate.
Thanks for sharing that. Looks like the length of the spring affects maximum load, maximum travel, and minimum loaded height.
On a different note, I thought it’d be cool to replace the front grills with the mesh style grills. I bought the top one and bought the mesh to make the bottom one. Once I had everything all cut out, I decided to see what it looked like before I destroyed the lower grill. I’m happy I did because after all that, I decided I like the stock grill the most. What’s everybody else’s opinion?
Mesh:
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/a044c41525e75077886ac6db22795a0d.jpg
Stock:
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/87091051abcb7959708b7fc6f5150d4a.jpg
I thought your boost numbers were low as I’ve regularly been seeing over 13 and high 12’s as the norm, then I realized you are at 5000+ feet. I am at see level at it has been on the cooler side lately.
What is your vacuum at idle?
My car is currently at Griffin in Berkeley getting subframe bushings and other goodies installed and a corner weight/alignment. Then getting strapped to dyno at the same shop.
Regarding your grill, I like the mesh.
personally I like the OEM s4 grille the best
[quote=“RX-Heven,post:305,topic:6466”]
Are you full stage 2 yet? I heard they had a car over there a month or 2 ago to get that installed and I assumed it was you. I’m still waiting for the care package but should have it soon. CountVohn told me I should have it before the competition on June 27th.
Vacuum at idle usually hangs around 14.3. Sometimes it’s a little lower sometimes a little higher. Seems like the weather/temperature affects this quite a bit. It also changes a little as the car warms up.
I thought I’d like the mesh too but I’m thinking I like stock stock more. At least on my black car. If I had a different color car, I might like it more.
For a black car at least, I totally agree.
Full stage 2.
I see my old consistent max psi of about 6.5 lbs halfway through the rpm range now and now I can rev to 7400 rpm.
It is nice…very nice.
Sick… Can I see a picture of what’s under your hood 
? Gotta say I’m pretty jealous right now. Really looking forward to extra power. I was hoping they’d up the limit to 8k like in their video but 7400 will do.
Saw this on the Vortech site which is interesting.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/19/fc8c3a2e4c65ccb9699c248fe0608b58.jpg
On a completely different note, I ordered my Michelin PSSs in 265/35/18 a few weeks ago. Called up today to see where they’re at. Michelin PSSs are apparently on national back order so I won’t have my tires for at least another month 
WTF?
265’s !?!?
You on 9’s or 9-1/2’s?
Can’t remember if the limit through the tune is 7500 or 7600 rpm. I’ve been shifting between 7200-7400. I’ve only bounced the limiter once right after Jason dropped of my car and I did some “testing”. I’d still like a proper, and subtle, shift light installed. Any recommendations???
Jason told me that the tune starts to slowly close the throttle above 7000 rpm iirc. Can’t remember the exact number but it was somewhere north of the stock redline. He stated that this was done, in part, to make the car feel like the power was dropping off so as to instigate an upshift from the driver and not overly stress a relatively new and unknown setup. I can tell you from the ol’ butt dyno, the power does not drop off.
Will be interesting to see the power curve from the dyno results. Not too interested in peak numbers, especially since it will be run on Griffin’s Mustang dyno which are notoriuos heart-breakers compared to other dyno manufacturers. If and when an rpm increase, tune update, or hardware update are ever done to the car, or preferably all three of the latter, I will have a baseline comparison.
clochner: edited for typo at request of RX-Heven
Could a mod edit the last post please?
^^ what do you want edited?
18x9s
[/quote]
anti-stretch.
I have 255’s on my CCW 9-1/2’s and they fit the rim pretty good. 265’s might fit them better but I was trying to squeeze the fuckers in…FAIL.
Right after Griffin is done with my car, it is off to a shop to have the fenders widened and in all likelihood, painted.
#nevergettodriveit
I quoted myself in post #312 from post #311 with the correction highlighted by an asterik. Could also delete post #312 if you feel like being an overachiever.
This moderator rules. This is clear proof that your a car guy. You obviously read all the forums. Plus karma for you
^^ thnx, Justin 
From a boost and rpm stand point you don’t want to have to see the rpm range extended too far. 7500 isn’t too bad. The great thing about the supercharger is you can gear it up for your wanted rpm range. You would mostly only want to extend the rpm to make an ever wider power range. But from what I have seen on the mustangs you don’t need to extend the rpm that much. You basically just move the max rpm to give yourself more cruise rpm range with the car out of boost. You ideally want to have the blower working really hard at 5200 rpm. This keep blower and tq levels in a good spot for when the hp tq crossing happens. Also the OEM camshafts aren’t going to love super high rpms.
Looking forward to it. I think everybody who heard about my car asked me for HP/Torque numbers and I just told them, “Don’t really care much, it’s fast, that’s all that matters.” 
At the same time it would be interesting to see what it puts down.