MDUBZ Intro and B6 S4 Build Thread

B6/7 S4/RS4
#41

Makes sense. A lot of things have changed from 2009. My 91 BMW 850i still has to go on a roller with a sniffer too but there have been talks about VA getting rid of that type of testing for the OBD1 cars so I am hoping for the best. It is hard to get older high cylinder count gas engines and older diesel engines through OBD1 emissions testing around here. Can’t imagine what it is like out there in Cali for an OBD1 car/truck.

The OEMs run into weird issues like that. Hell look at most of the stupid stuff that fails on the B8 A4s and other A models. In my opinion, most of that is caused by a lack of real world testing and the OEMs rushing production for the new models to stay current.

Have any of you guys watched the National Geographic supercars special on the Pagani Huayra? It is pretty cool that they had their test driver put over a million miles on the test cars to work out all the bugs. Of course that is not logistically and financially feasible for the rest of the OEMs on base models like an A4 but that would cut down on a lot of stupid issues. Still a good long video if anybody wants to watch it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdw5pVInsho

#42

Oh man what a tough call. On the one hand option 2 is great because you need to do that anyway as you have the parts. But you never want to rush installing the parts and if you run into any issues it might take several days longer then you have. Idea one should be sure fire but are you going to get more issues I’d they see you working on the car in the parking lot.

#43

That was actually what one of the guys there told me I could do. He had a modded sti and was genuinely interested in making sure my car got taken care of and passed. All he said was do it in the corner of the lot out of the way.

#44

That’s a confirmed win. When the shop tech tells you to do it that way you know your in good. Let us know how it turns out.

#45

So I got to it today. Wanted to make sure it was done correctly so I took my time and took a couple breaks along the way.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/fd717095289055255a4495ff8d8851c3.jpg

For the first time the bitch bolt came out like butter. It was actually harder getting it in this time around.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/7480d48d4d6ead225439696b081b1528.jpg

Taking the top shock mount bolts out reveal the drain valve Justin was taking about. Good call man, I’ll have to try adding some ice sometime although I haven’t asked if there’s water in there yet.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/e88fec892b51196d403c4748f4ecdda2.jpg

This bitch needs to come out for the new setup.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/dd715c966772278ad179d5c7281bbeff.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/47f6c077a0c7cb69b61b26036c1818d2.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/e9001387c114224de8f14138c5ec4bd0.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/b1cf7ab8e5c815cba2d272f7721777f6.jpg

It’s a shame this has to go where you can’t see it. What a nice looking piece.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/2bf27d7351e832b12a043663f97c2137.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/439d96fabc9e7520184375abbede5b7c.jpg

Ohlins w/ Eibach springs front vs. H&R front.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/52ef65e56d76a6e9de8c0bdd7bc95bf6.jpg

Say goodbye to stock comfort.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/c3221ad160bb396e25443c16d90cc9a5.jpg

Fronts are ready to be mounted.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/51cb0c6c22cf0fcf1b8c6a08ffdc9c8a.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/3295a75b008198a35269443480b66464.jpg

The cat is as impressed with the new engine as me.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/79d2c1020596ad0a0437009cfbc812d9.jpg

Time for the rear.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/e83d6f9098cc5db5b3df368afa7e12fb.jpg

Of course the hole in the control arm isn’t big enough to fit the perch mounting bolt. Luckily I hit it with a dremel for 2 minutes and it was good to go.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/d223bae19db8de6ce6f501e0308b8195.jpg

Stock top mount gets replaced with this kit.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/52a93726e2dec277786529d6ea91e0b1.jpg

PSI rear vs. H&R rear

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/34aa35d9554b1ea93aa2ca312a8204b0.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/22d6c5c568b3a1376e9419be5ddc02d3.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/d8897a7e2e8c4a588dae56ccc5828006.jpg

Stern rear link broken again. Anybody else hate these things? They literally break within a week for me every time. I think I’ve replaced them 5 times now.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/260cc4afc0cba1bceaa8a9e489dd14c8.jpg

All bolted in and jacked up in the back clearly.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/415be427918d0abe85ea242e63d206c0.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/83230df74db267b5506ac8b6be375569.jpg

Shoes on and back on the ground finally. Got gap?

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/d9ede02c1ecef487822d24393223f901.jpg

Looks like I should be able to do emissions like this lol. Although from a quick test drive I can tell the rear is clearly too high from the sound of it. It sounds like the perches are bouncing around pretty bad. So tomorrow I’m gonna need to adjust the height. Probably get her back to normal and just bring the jack with to the testing station and adjust it there. It’s pretty quick to adjust, just a little tiring. If anybody needs a diy for coils let me know. I’ve done this a hundred times now. There may be enough out there, I don’t think there’s one for this site though. Time to rest because I’m exhausted lol.

#46

Double post!

#47

Well done!

#48

bitch bolt lol. man u shoulda seen me wailing on mine, unreal. design flaw if u ask me. why cant the upper balljoints just have a taper and a nut like normal.

those things really are pretty. tell us about the ride once u getem all dialed in.

#49

Awesome job! Excited to see what you think of those coils once you get some more seat time!

#50

Thanks guys. Recap of today.

First time adjusting was another guess like yesterday pretty much although I knew I needed to make a significant drop after seeing the car on stilts last night. So I left about a 1/4" gap in the rear perches and dropped the fronts more than half of the remaining threads. Here’s my first attempt today.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/23/515cd7cb70086006f833eceb00389436.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/23/9010353a9aaf382f19d062fe68fc522a.jpg

After seeing this I realized the fears need to be lowered as far as they can go and the fronts still needed to be dropped by at least another 50% of the remaining threads. Here’s my second attempt.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/23/73cd2bc358041b9434afb80c571d2a2e.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/23/335cd3c463ff5fe1abe1785a6380c53a.jpg

The rears are there but the front needs a little more. Dropped it another 3 full rotations on the adjuster and tightened up the links and shock under load and finished.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/23/3ae453c80a0b7e8b9f0ce6a909bcc70c.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/23/bfc9c8713215d5bdeeea587107ffa5db.jpg

Looks like the front might need a tiny bit more but should be good until I get emissions tested. After a quick drive through some snow and sleet I can almost immediately tell its tighter than the H&R coils. There is very little body roll and they feel real solid. Unfortunately the rear perches are still loud as shit despite being lowered all the way. The lower part of the perch is nice and tightly bolted to the control arm with the bolt that goes through the control arm. However, the top part of the perch just rests on top of the bottom perch with the tip of the bolt sticking up through the middle of it. The top part of the perch can also swivel to keep the spring centered I’m assuming. I’m gonna call PSI tomorrow and confirm this is normal and inquire about any solutions for this. At very least I assume I can put a layer of rubber between the top and lower part of the perches? Any other ideas would be appreciated. Not the worst thing in the world but it isn’t the very comforting to hear what sounds somewhat like bolts bouncing around in a metal tool box.

#51

I am extremely happy to report that I was able to eliminate the rattle noise. Not sure exactly what fixed it but I tracked it down to the left side. After I pulled the wheel off I got another 1/4 turn on the subframe bolt, another 1/4-1/2 turn on the top strut mount bolt, zip tied back the broken end link and then it was golden.

These coilovers are amazing to say the least. Even after replacing the stock rubber shock mounts with delrin, the ride is easily as comfortable as stock. On the other hand they also perform very well. I did some really hard turns and it’s on rails more so than it’s ever been. I’d imagine fixing that rear link will make it even better.

Now it’s time to get those big brakes installed. Does anybody know what, if any, size spacers I’d need to run with these wheels to fit the JHM front big brake kit?

http://www.proeuroperformance.com/au720-b7-rs4-style-wheels-18x8-gun-metal-finish/

I’m running 18x8 with. 35 offset.

Also, after doing some reading, it doesn’t seem like I need to drain the brakes completely to do the install. I just need to replace what is lost when disconnecting and switching over the lines? Should I pick up a pump bleeder?

#52

I would use a pump on the brakes personally. Makes life sooo much easier. If it were me, I would grab a buddy/wife/gf/kid to keep the fluid topped off while you pump and just flush all the old crap out so you know its all fresh fluid. That would just be a piece of mind thing for myself…not sure how hard you drive your car or when the last time the fluid was changed.

#53

im all for the pump, I usually don’t have help when wrenching so its great.

#54

Yeah I figured the pump would be a ton of help. I’ll have to grab somebody to top the fluid off as I’m draining it like you said Quadfreak.

I noticed the bleeder nipples on the caliper actually point up so yeah, that’d probably be a nightmare without a pump.

I’m wondering if there’s any way to tell if the new calipers will fit by just looking closely at how close the OEM caliper gets to the wheel? Or if there’s a specific area I can measure to tell?

#55

You could unbolt the stock caliper and set the porshe caliper on there to test fit the wheel. I know the rotors are different but I would think you could get it on there good enough to get an idea of whether or not you’d need a spacer.

#56

didn’t jimmybones just try this and he coldnt get them to fit?? someone here did I cant remember now.

#57

R8 calipers I think…

#58

Yeah Jimmy tried R8 calipers a few weeks ago and said they were slightly too big for his Forgestars. These calipers don’t look that much bigger so I’m guessing I don’t need much if any extra space. Looks like I need to whip out the calipers and get measuring.

#59

right right that’s what it was.

#60

Ghettofied my car yesterday with some Plastidip for the first time and I hate this stuff. I should have just used regular paint. The only good thing about this stuff IMO is that it peels right off when you no longer want it on your car. I did the 2 front grill trims, the 2 side view mirrors and the window trim. Unfortunately upon removing the masking the trim started peeling so that was a huge waste of time.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/29/333ce1f7df11793d1fa4aa55af0cfa41.jpg

The grills turned out alright. Although, I’m not sure I like how the black trim with black paint looks for the grills. This will look much better when I change the car to white I think.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/29/28065b49e3a131ca95d0446972ca038b.jpg

I like how the mirrors came out.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/29/e7521dc54a9498bd7177ccc905b9f709.jpg

And I really like how the window trim looked. Too bad I had to peel it off immediately because of a few tears in the paint.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/29/bc10f72d13e1b483bcf5d1ef12b7b403.jpg