What an awesome thread. Thanks for sharing. 8)
Thank you, much appreciated.
Ok, so did a bit of driving and ran another VCDS scan and came up with the following two fault codes.
First fault I can’t explain why it didn’t came up initially but only showed up after some driving, anyway, seems that I am missing a resistor that was suppose to get plugged in to the harness to bypass the N335 valve so talked to Jake and will get that shipped out to me.
As for the 2nd one I still need to get into that 2nd ECU and see if there are any faults that need clearing.
Apart from that, nothing else major.
Chassis Type: 8E (8E - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B6/B7 (2001 > 2008))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 11 15 16 17 18 25 36 37 45 46 55 56 57 65
67 69 75 76 77
VIN: WUAZZZ8E18N900442 Mileage: 67960km-42228miles
Address 01: Engine Labels: 079-910-560-BNS1.lbl
Part No SW: 8E1 910 560 EU HW: 8E1 907 560
Component: STG1 SC/V3 JHM ª0060
Revision: 57H15— Serial number: XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Coding: 01040000180F0160
Shop #: WSC 02608 996 93599
VCID: 7DF718242485FDAAC5-8028
2 Faults Found:
004200 - Intake Air Switch-Over Valve (N335)
P1068 - 004 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 67946 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 779 /min
Load: 22.7 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 80.0°C
Temperature: 39.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 860.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V
006435 - Please Check DTC Memory of ECU Number 2
P1923 - 008 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 67962 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 69.0°C
Temperature: 62.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 850.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.192 V
Readiness: 0010 0000
Just wanted to see if you had an update on your thoughts. I assume your spending more time driving the car then talking about it.
Hahaha, yes, I let the car do the talking now.
All I can say is wow ;D Still getting used to it but OMG what a transformation. I sorted out the 004200 - Intake Air Switch-Over Valve (N335), P1068 - 004 - Open Circuit fault by plugging the N335 solenoid back in so it’s all clean now.
Apart from that, just nothing else, not one hick-up, run’s smooth and pulls like a rocket. What I have notice though is their is quite a bit of backlash evident in the drive train when coming of the gas suddenly. Now, I did installed the 034 engine and torque mounts so that must have stiffen up things in the front quite a bit and I guess replacing the OEM Trans and Diff mounts should take care of the remaining slop. I do have the 034 Transmission mount ready just waiting on the diff mount to arrive then I will swap those out.
I also pulled the steering wheel off to have it recovered to match the rest of the interior and that took a bit longer than anticipated. In fact it’s still with the upholsterer. Not being able to drive the car just sucked so I made a few phone calls and couldn’t believe my luck, guy on the phone said they have one available, in fact it’s still on the car and if I am prepared to pay $180 they will pull it off for me! Needless to say I got in my truck and drove straight over to pick it up. Apart from faded RS4 badge which is quite common and need replacing the rest of the wheel is in really good condition and I fitted it this afternoon. For that price I would have bought two if they had another one, it’s like hens teeth, you just don’t find them 2nd hand ;D
Given the performance and the price its kinda hard to pass on the JHM supercharger kit. Its a nice high to mid 11 sec car without the intercooler and if you want to updrade down the line and add the intercooler that adds a nice increase in performance. So its cool to have stages that you can bump up to. All that while running low amounts of boost less than 7lbs its a very efficient system.
Any plans on going to the track or just going to drive and enjoy.
Thanks again for a great write up and so many pictures. I think we all enjoy watching these come together.
it’s quicker down low but as you move through the RPMs it really hauls away from under you. Love the supercharger on the RS4.
Some guys say you want the torquey TVS unit, but I say no chance. The character of this car comes alive at high RPMs. When the TVS units are falling on their face up past 7000, the Vortech cars are taking off. It’s really almost not noticeable vs stock as far as delivery. It’s not like it’s suddenly a big bump down low and then flatlined to redline. IT’s just that same exciting RPM driven rush that an NA RS4 has. I think that’s great but to each their own.
Couldn’t agree more with you, when I started out going down this path I looked at all the different kits and I am not saying any of the other ones are bad, I just ignored all the BS and made up my own mind based on my research. The bump you get with the 5-6lbs is really remarkable. The price point is a plus but that was not the main contributor, it was just a bonus to get into the kit I wanted at that price. I do like the low boost though and that was one of the reasons I opted for the JHM. Hard to believe it’s only boosting 5-6lbs when you drive it though.
What I do like about this kit, as you pointed out, is the fact that I can upgrade should I decide to go that route, again at a great price, and I would then only sit at 7-9lbs max which for me is where I would feel comfortable even if the engine can handle more. And to be honest, I don’t think you need anything more with the V3 charger, it’s just so effective in it’s power delivery. Yes, forgive me if I am beginning to sound biased, but I can’t help it, you have to drive it to experience and appreciate it. ;D
As for the track, not on my immediate radar, for now I am still getting used to it and my clutch won’t cope with it anyway which is next thing on my to do list. The JHM 3R clutch and upgraded Diff & Transmission mounts are sitting in my garage ready to go in.
Have to agree, the Vortech charger fits the high revving V8 like a glove. It feels completely stock from the mark, and then as the revs climb the power just keeps on building all the way to the redline. I would have hated a big kick in the backside lowdown and then dropping off at 6500-7000 rpm’s, that’s where this kit start making power but as mentioned, everyone have different tastes, this setup just happen to be my taste and I wouldn’t want it any other way.
For me I love my JHM nitrous car but the JHM blower kits and there use of the Vortech blower has really grown on me.
The fact that every rpm from 3k on keeps pulling harder and harder its almost like the car still has that linear NA power curve where you dont have to wait for power and the power never falls off.
The roots kits you can really really feel them fall off up top and they are not built for high rpm cars that and the heat just kills the power. Turbo cars make less hp than stock for a good part of the band and then you have to wait for the turbo to catch up it lame. The Vortech is the perfict combination of both. And the best part its been proven on the track and the street to be just as fast if not faster than both options. I see it as a perfect fit
This is spot on, no lag, no huge kick lowdown, just OEM like delivery with power all the way to the limiter.
Couldn’t help start thinking what the difference between the Stage 1 and 1+ would be, will it be as significant as bolting on the Stage 1 initially, or will the increase in power be less noticeable? Or, will you just get more Stage 1 like power all the time due to heat soak not going to be such a power killer anymore?
Anyone have an idea what extra power the 1+ will add? I know it will up the boost to around 7-9Lbs but that’s about it. Have no clue as to what extra HP that will produce though.
On a nice and cool weather i have seen mine hit 9.2 on the 1 + kit! And i would say from stage one to stage 1+ you probably gonna be making about 35/50 extra HP, depending on weather, gasoline and stuff like that!
And I would really love to find some EURO RS4 seats for a good price:)
Buy some from England
Ship them here
Install them.
It’s only aboit 4000 us dollars shipped , and you’ll get that for them whenever you sell your car. Just keep. Your stock seats.
Really you just need fronts. Even cheaper.
Yea i only want front seats, do u know where i can find them any Links or someone that is selling a front set?
Why would AOA decided not to offer the Euro seats and the Steering wheel for that matter, those are the 2 must have options on the car!!!
Thanks Denis, that would be 9.2lbs boost right? I am very tempted, might as well go all the way now that the car is charged and do it properly. Could be a nice project for the December hollidays and vacation coming up. I have mailed Jake already to get more info, just waiting on him to get back to me.
US safety standards are different to the rest of the world.
Also Americans are fat.
[quote]US safety standards are different to the rest of the world.
[/quote]
Very different ???
[quote]Also Americans are fat.
[/quote]
LMAO ;D
The stage 1+ kit is very cool! It should keep intake air temps really low and you can get the water so cold that it will need coolant because it will freeze.
Thanks Jimmy, I had no idea it would be that efficient!