Agreed, that stock manifold FTW, but again, I might just be biased 
Thank you, and welcome to the blower world ;D
Me the reason for you purchase, man that’s some big words and a huge compliment but thank you kindly, I am sure my commission cheque from JHM is in the mail,LOL, Jake are you on here?? ;D ;D
You are most welcome, will assist where I can!
Its a big decision, but I am convinced you made the correct one, looking forward to follow your install and progress!
Who do I write it out to?? ;D
I think he says that to all the girls…
[quote]Who do I write it out to?? ;D
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Lol, Jake, lets just keep it in the kitty
Saki, apologies, Jake, please take note, royalties is accumulating on your end fast ;D ;D ;D
But seriously tho. What a great point. This has to be the cleanest looking kit. Lets not take away from how RS4fan took the time to make all this work on the RHD but RHD or standard the kit really is a lot of parts very carefully designed to fit in zero space. It looks clean and very OEM. Great work again to RS4fan
Great work Rudi!
As you know mines on the back burner at the moment but seeing yours gives me that little bit of inspiration i need to get mine finished. Its now 46c over here so i doubt that ill see anything like your figures but you never know.
For me the next thing is a water/meth kit to get the temps even lower.
I might be in JHB next month so if possible would be good to catch up.
Hi James,
Thanks, get it done mate.
You have my contact details, please let me know when you are in town and let’s grab some lunch and if you have time, go for a ride in the RS just so you can feel what you are missing out on ;D
Having problems viewing the pics bc of PBs new policies. I’m stuck on the install due to some missing hoses from JHM. Need to verify what I’m missing. Can anyone email the pics to wahpao@yahoo.com . Thanks
Hey Nick,
Let me know which ones you need, I did respond to your PM as well. This was just a underhand move from PB, anyone know how I can update my thread and reload the photos rather than hosting them somewhere?
Thanks for the link, manage to get that working, now just to see whether I can update the thread. However, I suspect I haven’t reached the required post count yet.
Thought I would update this thread with some clutch information for anyone planning to go down this route.
For the ones that did read my initial Stage 1 install I did mentioned that I orderred a JHM 3R clutch & L/Flywheel combo with the Stage 1 but elected to not install at the same time. The OEM clutch was still good and I decided for the time being to just run with that as I was not planning to do any hard launches or dragstrip events.
The car back then was sitting on 42170 miles and it copped pretty well with the extra power the way I was driving it. Stage 1+ was installed on 42560 miles and is currently on 43924 miles.
Since the Stage 1+ install I did on a few occasions felt that perhas the clutch was slipping a bit especially when shifting from 1 to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gears under spirited driving conditions, but I wasn’t sure.
Well, the clutch just couldn’t keep up anymore even with those soft launches the extra power eventually got the better of the OEM clutch and this past Saturday after a fairly brisk launch and quick shift to 2nd and 3rd the clutch just slipped and I had to back off completely to get drive. The time has arrived to get that 3R clutch installed asap.
So to recap, Stage 1 on 42170 miles, Stage 1+ on 42560, Clutch saying enough is enough on 43924 miles.
I feel that you could get away with the Stage 1 and OEM clutch if you don’t do any hard launches, With the Stage 1+, even launching like a Granny the OEM won’t cope.
Will do a separate thread for the JHM 3R clutch and I have also decided to order a KC system and will do a step by step install thread for that as well.
Excited to see the next chapter in this evolution of your car. I have driven in a few cars with the 3r and its a good clutch. JHM did a great job with that you should be really happy.
Picked up the RS today, 3R Clutch and LWFW fitted and the setup feels really good. I have never had a performance clutch on any of my cars so I expected it to be heavy and really aggressive on engagement but I couldn’t have been more wrong :o
Only drove from the shop to my house with quite a few stop and go and traffic lights on route but initial impressions are it feels almost stock. Pedal feels light and almost effortless to operate. The travel/stroke is definitely shorter and it engage a bit quicker but apart from that there is not much else that give it away. Also with the LWFW I was a bit apprehensive about the infamous chatter that comes with it but I must be hard of hearing, I couldn’t hear anything that I can even remotely associate with chatter. Will listen a bit more closely when I have more time this weekend.
Nothing new for most of you but had to post 2-3 pic’s just for the record.
LWFW
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/77652360.png
Clutch & Pressure Plate
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/27787105.png
http://audirevolution.net/addons/albums/images/304582724.png
All that’s left is to get cracking on the 500 miles break in distance so guess what I will be doing most of this coming weekend. Can’t wait to get those miles behind me and see what this clutch can really do!
Great update and I cant believe your clutch lasted that long. IT is funny tho that when you went and added the extra power the OEM clutch just gave out.
As for the LWFW chatter that isn’t a common thing if you drive normally. The chatter only happens when you lug or bog the motor in low RPM situations. Normally most drivers would have down shifted by the point the flywheel would chatter but you get those guys who I guess never want to shift LOL.
The great thing is that a LWFW will really help with acceleration of the car. It frees up hp and tq by obviously reducing the rotational mass. When you are able to really hot rod the car you will be able to tell how much quicker the car revs up but on the same token the revs will also drop quicker on shifts so keep that in mind if your trying to get a good 0-60 time or 1/4 mile time.
Yes, but I really babied it to be honest, no intentional hard launches but I did do some quick shifts and on a few occasions I could put money on it that it was slipping. The extra power from the 1+ just stretch the OEM clutch beyond it’s limits and I am glad it gave up, couldn’t really drive the car to it’s full potential since the blower was installed so looking forward to get the 3R broken in and then see what this car can do.
[quote]As for the LWFW chatter that isn’t a common thing if you drive normally. The chatter only happens when you lug or bog the motor in low RPM situations. Normally most drivers would have down shifted by the point the flywheel would chatter but you get those guys who I guess never want to shift LOL.
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Lol, yes, figured that out over the weekend, heard the noise when I applied throttle at low rpm’s in 2nd gear, first thing that came to mind is damn, the shop must have forgot to tighten something and it must be rattle/vibration of some sorts on the exhaust or something, ;D Never heard it again until I did it again on purpose and then realized that must be the “chatter” everyone is mentioning. If that’s it then I don’t see any problem.
Interesting comment about the HP and TQ. I figured that I should see some extra hp but that I would loose a bit in the tq department due the lower rotational mass?
Yes chatter isn’t something most drivers will see. Obviously if the weight of the flywheel was crazy low then it would be more obvious but JHM did a good job finding the right balance in getting weight off the crank shaft and getting enough material mass to keep chatter to a min.
On the drop of the rotational weight. You definitely won’t loose any hp or Tq. It frees up both. IT is hard to measure and its not exactly linear…
Its probably easier explaind like this. You don’t loose hp or tq but you gain hp and you gain tq by removing the resistance to the motors rotational weight. Its like you can make the car faster by taking weight out. You can help reduce the amount of rotational acceleration resistance. The motor can spin more free using less tq to simply spin to the next rpm point.
The fun science way to see this is. Take a 10lb weight put it on a 3 foot rope. now swing the weight around at a set speed. then try to spin the weight faster. Do the same with a 5lb weight. you will be able to accelerate the smaller weight faster even with less work or less “TQ” applied
So it will take less effort to spin the 5lb weight faster. The only plus with a heavier weight is that the heavy weight will be harder to slow down… but how many times do you care how fast your motor spins down… for most its like never… Again since the flywheel weight is less the motor will tend to spin down faster on shifts if you are not quick enough.
Aaahh gotcha, makes total sense now, good explanation!