As HPFP start leak fuel, from AliExpress for $75 get new valve
It is same as oem
Now waiting for second because second pump recently start leaks…
[Link to HPFP replace valve](HRK 509.05 11%OFF | 06F127025K 06F127025F Left Right Pressure Fuel Pump Converter Fit for VW EOS Golf 5 6 JETTA 3 PASSAT SCIROCCO GTI 2.0 2004-2020 https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLgpqp0)
Car work smoothly, and VCDS scan is clean
Very interesting ! Have you changed the internals as well ? Like the small piston in contact with the cam lobe ?
No, hey was checked before 2y and was in good shape
As constantly drying battery if car is not driven for some time, and vcds find alarm horn error, decided to replace alarm horn.
25€ from ebay
Let’s see result…
Wishing you the best of luck.
How to?:
Replace faulty Front Mid-Right parking sensor 7h0919275c
Remove plate holder
Pull parking sensor with bracket out with flat screwdriver
Replace sensor and place everything back
Replacing broken HPFP el.connector 4D0971992A
Pull out blue clip
Use special 2xpin tool to squeeze clips on terminal
And put new
Just love it 
PM’s done on both pumps, there is no visible worn-out on critical points, everything cleaned, lubricated and put back together.
Only noticed some derbs inside of filters in pump, but they get wash out with brake cleaner.
These pumps are pretty good long term. Good to hear your inspection found the same. Great work
replaced second hpfp regulator as it start leaking, now both pump running with no name replaced regulators. all good
coolant tank replaced, broken parts and coolant leaked. easy replacement remove air box for, two torx bolts on top of tank and just disconnect 2x hoses and 1x level sensor cable
original RS6 headlights didn’t give good light on road so i get from ebay E55 3.0 Bi-Xenon HID D2S Projector Lens Replacement For A6
look through RS6 lens
RS6 projector
SINOLYN projector
only modifications that was needed to do
1- replace retaining spring that holding bulb with OEM one, SINOLYN was different shape and was unable to install igniter on bulb
2- grind top hole on bracket to fit pin that going inside for ASF frame
3- grind plastic
oem projector (blurred picture but in reality its big difference between them)
SINOLYN projector
eyeshade and other plastics was chrome coated and it start peeling off, also i did s*** by cleaning them so they was gone on some spots. so all of them get painted in black
and finally install headliner, it get new black fabrics, its not same as oem Audi, but I’m happy with result and sponge on it is thicker that’s improve soundproofing.
to remove it or install, A-B-C/D pillars must be removed. A and B are just on pull- no screws, but for C/D pillars there is 4 bolts on each side, 15 clips around sunroof frame.
to get it in or out, it can be done through trunk, but must be bent, only issue is metal frame on front for sunroof and light, but its easy fix when is back in car and everything is seat nice
before installing headliner, find out broken drain that can make big issue, its fixed with Red Tesa double side tape…
and JHM ECU tune done, selected with SAI deleted, add had option for 3 type of flash- all octans, 93+ octan and 100+R octans. i selected 93+ and car is reborn, emission control passes in first run with 100octan fuel.
0 degree Celsius first start in morning is nice and smooth.
only some issues happening sometime when performing kick down to floor in second or third gear, or car kick down to those gears, when reaching 6000rpm and above car cut power and at same time traction control light flashed, car get little relaxed for second or two and start pulling to 7500rpm (at that time im not removing foot from throttle, its kick down). its also happening if i go from 0 to up speed, but not all time. only i didnt try yet with turned off traction control- some next time, roads are wet.
engine spinn up to 7500rpm, couple time somehow on manual shifting did 8000rpm and it’s was amazing sound.
engine work smooth, exhaust sound full changed. instant respond on throttle, no more delay. pulling immediately in all gears. no more stupid changing gears while in D-mode to higher gear while it should stay in same. if driving in D-mode and little sport style, its perform like that, if driving casually it perform like that and will do shift up earlier to continue smooth ride. that’s exactly what its missing on OEM mode. for manual or S-mode no need comment as this is sick compared to oem.
next will be TCU flash
Thanks @JHmotorsports
Had oil leak every day, good job for mechanic fixing this and now its clean and dry
Two o-ring on oil cooler fault due age/heat, cracked, valve cover gasket leaks everywhere as lost flexibility, also filling up spark coils
Not too bad looking.
Long time ago, driver seatbelt sensor was interrupted and sometimes was good sometimes not good. Problem solved by turn off seatbelt warning with vcds.
And finally tooked time to troubleshooting and it was very easy fix.
Plastic housing split with flat screwdriver, to put back need use superglue and tide together until its dry.
Pull sensor out
I didnt toke picture before, but this small metal plate inside was bend and it didn’t stick out so much, thats why when seatbelt was latch it didnt push it away enough. With small flat screwdriver just pull it out and make as looks now and work perfectly.
Seatbelt warning activated with carista, and automatic handbrake release work again
Love the fresh update. Looks good.
Thanks.
So latest update is about TCU, flashed yesterday and today easy driving so i dont have proper review due lazy driving, let’s wait to get it adapted.
But, noticed quicker and smooth shifting in D mode and normal driving, but on one quick acceleration it shift mucth quicker than before and its making good kick back in seat, never feel that before from my s6.
Also, i find out that ECU tune i did is version without cats, funny thing is i pass emissions test.
Its a monster with Stage 2 ECU, once I found out that was for cat delete I went back to stage 1 so the cats wouldn’t clog faster.
TCU tune takes some getting used to, I asked about it and was told it accelerates more like an R8 now. Shifts are much firmer under heavy acceleration and it takes a lot less pedal to get up to speed now.
Replacing sunroof seal:
Decide to replace it due age, there was no damages or loss of hardness.
Tilt up sunroof. Remove side skirts, just pull them out, but be careful to not broke rubber
Unscrew 6x torx 25 bolts, 3 on each side, sunroof will drop but its ok
Push up glass and pick up from top, to remove seal its best from middle, just pull out and go arround
Once seal is removed, toke WD40 and any type of rag, clean all surface arround from derbs
Install new seal, there is UP and DOWN side, not shure if this effects wind deflection but top side edge is smooth and bottom have one grove, keep smooth side up
Before installing glass, clean up sunroof frame from derbs so new seal will sealed arrond on paint. Use WD40.
Same for sliding mechanism, now its good opportunity to do some cleaning and lubricate, WD40 good again.
After installing sunroof glass, slightly tide up all 6 bolts but keep them lose enough so glass can be adjusted by hands, after that close sunroof and adjust leveling.
Front side uf glass should be max 1mm below frame, rear side max 1mm above frame.
Front
Rear
Once set up is done, DO NOT OPEN sunroof, tide up all 6 bolts up to 4.5Nm, or best practice hand-tide.
Do function test, if all work fine install side skirts.
Some documents for reference from Elsa
Parking sensors:
System not working and error - short to ground (full system), no info which sensor. Pull one by one and find Front Left with one pin coroded. Clean up pin and reconected and system is back to life
