:-\ Not sure what to tell you…maybe it’s because of a square setup that I can rotate!!! Keep in mind I’m also a novice and one of my instructors was the hardcore “you got to go slow before fast”, but I don’t think I’m pussy footing it out there ;D
I used the SPC arms to actually dial out some of the camber from the slight drop. I believe something like 1.9 deg in the front, not sure about rear.
I’ll probably change that up and go more like 2.5 in front like West used to run. This is pretty much the most aggressive alignment I think you can run on an S4 (west can probably chime in)
Whoa - are those west’s old alignment numbers?
-2.6 on stock height suspension is pretty sweet. That’s more than I expected with the adjustable arms–usually they are only good for a little over 1 degree change, so I was thinking like 2.1 was more realistic! That’s good to know.
I find the car needs to dial out rear toe too (well, that’s what I’m going to do anyway). There is ZERO off throttle rotation. Blowsssssss. Drob23 and Akatsuki, do you get better off throttle rotation with the new bars on (I know both of you run front and rear)? I intend to only get the rear to assist with that front.
Also a funny note - while I was rotating my tires (for the 3rd time!), I noticed that the front eats rubber so bad that my front control arms were all black–because they were covered in tiny bits of rubber! The continentals just disintegrated into tiny pieces…it looked like eraser shavings all over my suspension.
So perhaps although the car eats front tires for breakfast (due to the push), the continentals are also pure garbage for the track. Zero durability from these. They just peel away. I really should take some pictures of them. It’s quite humorous XD
Best lap 1:43.3 (Akatsuki is much faster than me on this course). Tires and brakes were completely done. Pedal went to the floor a number of times throughout the day. I was nursing the car and pumping the brake in the braking zones (lol).
Stasis already sold out
Unless you know of another vendor? I contacted the dude on AZ who was saying he had limited stock. They were gone within a couple days. Craaaaaaap. Thanks for the input on the uss bars!
Wow! Pro!
You are braking much later now
Huge difference from just only the track day prior!!!
Nice lap everywhere–for those that don’t know, this lap was with dead tires too. There’s still time on the table.
I forget where we were discussing brake pads, but you’ll probably recall me bitching about how bad my brakes sounded after the track day. Well, major facepalm moment, yesterday I finally swapped out the xp8’s in the rear for some 1521’s and COMPLETELY quiet.
Fail on my part, not even sure I’m going to swap the rear pads again, wasn’t too bad, but required VCDS and a battery tender. I’m assuming the bobcats will do OK on track, and if anything, will just fade a little and send the bias forward.
Hopefully it works out!
I ran a similar pad compound to bobcats on the Boss (actually stock pads were performance friction street pads) and they were no good. The rears heated up a ton, and the pads laid down a bunch of pad transfer material, giving the rear rotors a warped feeling. Plus, the transfer layer got so thick that the rear pads would not release as fast as normal. They released slower than the fronts, so it got squirrely under hard braking sometimes.
Not sure if S4 would have the same issue of course, but just a heads up that it can happen. That being said though, even the stock S4 rear pads don’t do this. So perhaps the Bobcats will be totally fine.
As for pads in general, I’m going to try Endless ME20 next season. Failing that, I may need to go all out for Pagid RS19. Would really prefer not to though Dat noise. How are the carbotechs for noise?
The bobcats have no noise at all, can’t even tell when I’m on the brakes.
I’m assuming they’ll be better than the stock pads, hopefully not depositing material though. Next track day is at mid-ohio, which is pretty easy on brakes in general, definitely lots of speed carrying sections with enough speed to cool rotors. I could also just put the xp8’s back in, ugh…
There are a few guys on the AZ track thread who are touting the endless pads as the mythical unicorn: no compromise track pad that can be street driven. Looking forward to hearing your impressions.
Yeah!
However, I think the AZ folks are talking about ME72, which is really a street pad.
ME20 is much more aggressive. I want to stay away from street centric pads. If there’s one thing this car really needs, it’s brakes. So I’m going all in with a racing pad!
Just so happens that this pad is not noisey (apparently). We shall see. The GTR boys love it. That car is similar weight and more power…so it should work!
Food for thought… but stock brakes other than fluid and brake lines… i had no fade at mosport running 1:44 consistently and 2:09 at shannonville. I still dun get why people diss oem pads so badly.
For the record, Akatsuki is faster than me at Mosport. His 1:44 days became 1:40 days @.@
I’m doing 1:43 @ Mosport on a bone stock car. The pads require a lot of pressure and lack bite. Not much modulation either. You can press really hard, yet the stopping force is pretty flat lined. They release well, as they don’t grab excessively when you reduce pedal pressure. But in general, it’s been pretty par for course as a stock pad. Though looking at it differently, the stock pads are “good enough” for hard track use. They still hold up, and although they fade, they still bite better than HPS and many other factory pads.
I’ll give stock pads this: They are good for learning Though for more experienced guys out there, they do not really suffice. Tons and tons and tons of pad fade and little modulation. But still work.
Also though, bc I like messing around with Akatsuki, I disagree with him XD STOCK PADS ARE POO!!!
I would caution that using a less aggressive pad in the rear will also have the bi-product of putting a higher load/stress on the front brakes (increased heat and wear).
lol I’m used to swapping pads (even at the track for the journey home) so it’s no biggie for me (I have a good routine).
Will definitely keep your advice in mind, agree that it will reduce overall brake performance, causing me to be on the pedal longer.
Separate question (asked on az too): anyone disagree with getting some 18×9.5 et 40 tsw wheels and some R888 255/35R18 tires? Can’t find any other compatible tires, would prob go 255/40 if I could find them on a decent tire. Don’t want to go slicks fwiw.
A good wear ratio is 2 sets of front pads for every set of rear pad. For the B8 S4, the RP2 in the front and the XP10 was a great balance for me. I’m still experimenting for the RS5…
R888s are great for the track! A few B8 S4s here already run them (in that size). I want to get a set next year but have to figure out what fitment.
Weird, my experience with R888 is the opposite.
They get greasy fast, overheat quickly and when they do, their grip falls off dramatically.
They tend to be more forgiving with larger slip angles though, but in general the grip is sub par for an r compound tire.
Even on a light car (Corolla gts), the tires get greasy after 3 to 4 laps. Imagine how it would be with an understeering Audi! I personally would not want greasy front tires…
Over here for anyone who is in the time attack circle, no one runs R888. It’s RA1 or BFG R1.
I’d even venture to say I’d rather be on Hankook RS3 than use R888. Totally not worth it imo.