Very nice and welcome! There’s something addictive about the combination of the high revving V8 and the S-Tronic. No, doesn’t have the bottom end of the 3.0T, especially modded, but it’s simply amazing to drive as you well know!
Good to have you here and don’t hesitate to ask any question. We try to be very positive and supportive here overall. The owners here are an awesome group of enthusiasts.
Hey guys, Andrew Y. from Hong Kong here.
Stumbled here while researching JHM and reached out to Michel over IG regarding the stage 2 tune. My daily drive is a 2013 B8 RS4, apologies if I don’t strictly qualify; the RS5 thread is the next closest thing. Looking forward to exchanging ideas with you.
Have installed pretty much the whole 034 catalogue for B8 RS5, with Bilstein B16 coil overs and some ECStuning bits and Supersprint front DP + mid x-pipe w/ muffler. Handling is all sorted, now I’m looking for more power like mid range torque and weight savings
You can catch me on IG @blu_rs4_hk
Andrew! Glad you made it over here! Good to have another wagon so Steve doesn’t feel so lonely. So wish they’d brought wagons to the U.S.!
I’d wager a lot of people here are super jealous of the wagon, I know I am. I would trade my RS5 for an RS4 wagon in a heartbeat! Gorgeous car!
Love the wagon. Beautiful ride!!
Thanks Michel, can’t wait to follow-up on that group buy with you!
btw, I noticed that the recommended exhaust set-up to go along with the stage 2 ECU + TCU tune is the 2.75’ JHM. I currently have the Supersprint front DP (de-resonated) + mid X-pipe w/ muffler setup, rear mufflers are still stock. Also have K&N high-flow air filters for the OEM box. I guess that should suffice?
Thanks! Interesting note here in Hong Kong: on the second hand market, RS4 wagons command higher resell values than RS5 coupes/cabriolets
Thanks bud!
Should be fine with that exhaust. Do RS5 exhausts even fit the wagon?
Think so, the fittings for RS5 seem to fit RS4 as well.
On another topic, for the JHM stage 2 tune, do i HAVE to use a wired connection?
You do not. If you have fast wifi, like 60Mbps or greater, you’ll be just fine. You DO need a healthy car, healthy battery, and a battery charger hooked up while flashing.
I like to charge the battery for an hour or two prior to flashing and leave it connected. I turn off ALL accessories and lights. I’m probably being overly cautious but the Can-Bus is very voltage sensitive and I’d rather take precautions than have something go wrong.
But overall it’s a very easy process.
60Mbps??? Some of us live out in the country and are lucky to get 5~7Mbps on a good day 
It’s not so much a fast connection, rather, a stable connection, correct? How big is the file download from JHM servers?
sub-urban houses and garages are not so common here in HK, thus it isn’t so easy for me to get a LAN cable from my router to the car.
Silly question but how do you charge the car, with alligator clips on the battery?
Stable connection is obviously good and was vital on the old server, hence the need to use a wired connection. The new flash server is much more stable than the old but a faster speed will just allow it to flash faster and less chance for the battery to drain or something to go wrong. 3-4 Mbps would be pushing it and I’d suggest finding a friend in-town with better wifi to flash. I think the slowest connection I’ve used was 30Mbps and it ws fine. In fact, util I upgraded my wifi routers, that’s the speed I flashed at. I flashed a friend’s car in Austin and his connection was 400Mbps. The whole process at that speed was just stupid quick.
No idea how big the file is but basically the server will scan your car first and upload the information. If there’s already a match for your controller on the server, the files pop up and you can continue to flash. From that point, it’ll be downloading the file. There’s a status bar the whole time showing its progress. I’m assuming it downloads the complete file and then flashes as opposed to flashing as it downloads.
For the battery charger, there’s a positive and negative hookup in the engine bay. The negative poll is located on the (in the US) driver’s side fender and the positive is behind the firewall. Look at the cowl cover. In the center, you’ll see a cover you can pull up. Under that is yet another cover, pull that up and it’s the large poll sticking up. You can see them in my Antigravity battery video, from about the 11:45 min. mark.
Welcome Andrew 
Good to have another RS4 on here ! Your car looks beautiful love that colour 
Have tried to send you a reply on the other forum but its saying your inbox is full ?
If your on here ill try to pm you with my reply to your questions 🖒
Steve, thank you for replying on DM and glad we can bring the discussion here with Michel and the other folks.
Am looking to pull the trigger on Stage 2 next month and since ur the only RS4 who has done the tune, I will def appreciate any tips.
You mentioned someone from JHM who was ace and helped you sort out some differences in fuel from UK vs US. Was this linked to your engine code? Should I reach out now to pre-empt any problems?
When you purchase the tune, get the cable, download the software and connect to your car for the first time, the flashing server first does a scan of your car. It pulls down all the box/controller codes on the ECU side and then determines if a match exists. If not, you’ll get a controller not found message and the engineers will whittle something up for you, usually within 24-48 hours.
The only real difference in fuel is the rating method used. So our 93 premium is like 98 RON high test or whatever they call it in that portion of the world. Generally, on the premium “high octane” side, the U.S. has 91 and 93 AKI or (R+M)/2 but the two are equivalent. They just use a different means of calculating the octane rating.
When I process your order, it actually asks if you’re in N. America or ROW (rest of the world) and we’ve flashed a few people in your direction so you’ll probably be good to go.
How do they rate fuel in HK? What are your premium fuel octane ratings there, 98RON?
Thanks Michel, that’s really quite clear. sounds like it is quite failure-proof and little chance of flashing something halfway and getting stuck. What i am most worried about is a bricked ECU! the car is coming to 8 years old now so I often take extra precautions
I only use Shell V-power and apparently in Hong Kong they are 98 RON, imported from Singapore. Not sure if the budget option is 95 RON or not, but fuel is generally ridiculous in this part of the world due to 90% tax.
Hello! I’m Q!
I own a 2014 Sepang RS5. Just upgraded with the JHM Stage 2 TCU, ECU. Other modifications include Milltek Catback exhaust, & KW Coilovers. I’m excited to learn from all of you and share where I can.
Cheers!
Q! Bout time you made it over here…how’s the stage 2?
-Michel
Thank Michel! Yeah, I was hanging out on that “other” place for a while… and facebook. The Stage 2? Oh, one word: Aggressive! I really like it. It is going to take some adapting to the new sensitivity of the throttle control, but the car is definitely faster, more responsive, and has “edge.” Exactly what I was looking for; Thank you for your help. I’ll get some 0-60 and quarter times here soon. 
Beautiful car! Welcome aboard!
JHM stage 2 is awesome!
