Engine drop question

Hey guys what is the torque for the engine mounts and everything that it attaches to like the bracket and the subframe

Here you go.

Ed
Subframe_Removal_Install.pdf (218.4 KB)

Thank you

Question guys why would the car run rough when it gets warm. It runs all fine until it gets warm and engine will start shaking and the exhaust rattling. Would that be the sparks or perhaps the injectors? I have no idea I feel itā€™s more a spark thing. Iā€™ll look at the vcds if I get around to it but for a general idea does anyone have insight on this?

The cooler it is outside the smoother it runs

I have no idea I wonder if I should get that liqui molly injector cleaner and see if that makes a difference

Use VCDS and log for misfires. Start it when cold and watch it as it gets warm.

Ed

Think I found the problem a very oily spark plug I found when I removed it

If you havenā€™t done a compression test, you might want to.

Ed

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Hey guys we are back here again so the shake is definitely air related I fixed one part of the leak and itā€™s a bit better. Now I hear the leak coming from the passenger side from behind I assume itā€™s this hose here

I donā€™t know what else it can be

Iā€™ll do that when I get the chance too

Itā€™s definitely not the gasket between manifold and throttle body housing itā€™s a new gasket

That hose is $86 at the dealer! Total rip. I did a brief write up on it here Failed NEW Intake Mani -Rev M and here
Audi C6 S6 v10 Info Dump

Yours circled is the drain hose, mine was in ok condition so i cleaned and re-used it with a new clamp on the engine side. It could also be the pvc hose that has a check valve in it that goes from that same location on the engine to the passanger side intake hose.

If your hearing air escape it could be that hose PN 07L103217B, your oil seperator, the o ring where it connects to the IM heater, or the o ring where the IM itself connects to the ā€œIM heaterā€ part also.

I have a feeling you need to check the hose PN 07L103217B

Try blowing and sucking and make sure the check valve is working. You can access the end where it connects into the pass side air intake hose

Picture for reference. My oil drain return hose was leaking lightly so I replaced it with a worm gear clamp. Hope it works for me. Right next to it is the PCV hose

The oil separator is new but I bought another one to see if that eliminates the problem before I start jumping to the other things

If you havenā€™t Iā€™d recommend OEM for the separator. I went with a cheap-o from eBay initially (was the first and last non OEM part Iā€™ve purchased) and it was fine for about a month or so before I mysteriously developed a lean condition and eventually a very high pitched whistling sound that after reading this post from the Ross-Tech forums I coughed up for the OEM and havenā€™t had any problems since. Thought it was worth mentioning.

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Shit probably thatā€™s it. I bought a $40 one off of fcp and with there lifetime warranty I didnā€™t think much of it when this new $40 one comes and it starts working Iā€™ll buy a oem one

If itā€™s from FCP Iā€™d probably trust that over eBay but even still might be worth a shot.

I remember when I got car ran fine but all o2 sensor shit happening made me not think about the vacuum leak it could be that I barely even used it. Iā€™m going try that and if it continues Iā€™ll remove the manifold and check hoses there